Beer style of the week; Baltic or Imperial Porters

Week 51

Imagine for a moment you’re a deck hand in the 1850’s sailing aboard a merchant vessel, plying the icy waters of the Baltic Sea and Gulf of Bothnia. With frozen masts, sails and icy decks to constantly tend to, you’re hauling precious cargo between Russia, Finland, Sweden, Estonia, Germany and Poland. It’s hard to imagine a more perilous or more miserably cold place to be. And when your shift for the day ends your reward MUST be more than hard tack crackers, salted pork fat and reindeer jerky! There’s got to be a sane reason why you’d put yourself through frozen hell without some form of end-of-the- day pleasure. The answer? Baltic Porter!

Here’s the brief history of the Porter style as outlined in week 12;

The dark Porter was a beer that was popular amongst the river and street porters of London in the early 1700s. The Porter style, as written in some publications was originally a blend of what was named the Three Threads. This was a blend of ale, old ale and a potent beer called Twopenny (the cost per quart). Sometimes Porter was referred to by the name “Entire Butt”, based upon it having all the three blends together in one beer. An aged, stronger Three Threads blend became known as Stout Porter, and in time, shortened to “stout”. In many circles of the day, the name porter and stout became interchangeable. At any rate a Porter should have, at least, a faint astringent tart or slight sourness bitterness known to the “Old Ale” style.

Baltic Porter is one of the most aptly-named beer styles on the planet. Named for the extra strong Porter that was brewed to survive long and arduous sea journeys in some of the harshest climates and conditions known to man. It was, and is to this day, survival beer. Hearty, nutritious and above all, full-flavored Porter. The alcohol by volume (ABV) should be between 7% - 9%.

From the lands of origin

Okocim Porter – Browar Okocim (Carlsberg) – Brzesko, Poland – 8.1% ABV

500 ml (16.9 oz.) brown bottle. No freshness date. Poured into a Sam Adams perfect pint glass.

Oddly, brewed in Southern Poland, nowhere near the Baltic Sea.

It pours a very deep and dark mahogany brown color with a fast-fading tannish head along with some webby lacing.

Dark rummy alcohol fuminess is released at first pour. Smoky roast malt, burnt rye toast and a light citrusy smell blend quite well together.

The flavors are straight forward with little in the way of subtleties. Dark roasted malt, dark coffee, metallic and resinous hops, rum and figs are fairly equal. Some burnt sugar sweetness is perhaps a bit too prominent.

The body is just about right for the style, though on the syrupy sweet side. It's smooth, liquid and nearly oily. This particular Okocim offering is always very consistent. I look forward to drinking it when in the mood, and it never lets me down.

Neuzeller Kloster-brau Porter – Klosterbrauerei – Neuzelle, Germany – 7.1% ABV

Brewed on the Polish border in Northern Germany.

16.9oz brown bottle. Freshness date stamped on bottle.

It pours a dark coffee color with tan bubbly, fast fading head.

An earthy smell of cut hay and powered malt is upfront and hint of cocoa is light in the background.

A strong taste of Hershey’s Chocolate syrup and milk dominates the mild hint of lime-like citrus.

A light brown sugar sweetness and coffee help to mask the fairly potent alcoholic heat.

Sinebrychoff Porter – Oy Sinebrychoff AB – Kerava, Finland – 7.2% ABV

Sinebrychoff, or Koff as it is called in Finland really stands out as a true "craft" brew. This "vintage" Baltic Porter ages very well, when cellaring at around 55°F. The flavors and aromas change ever-so-gradually. You can expect this brew to last 6 to 8 years. This Baltic Porter is a prime example of a beer crafted with care, attention to detail and love. The color is like strong, dark coffee. Lovely aromas of chocolate malt, smoke, coffee and dark rum vie for attention. The full and rich body envelopes flavors of coffee, rye, dark chocolate and a bit of licorice. An abundance of sharp-edged fresh hops, citrus bitterness and hint of spices provide a lively bite. It's slightly smoky with an essence of pine in the background. This powerfully flavored brew has a bit of an alcohol kick, yet it remains very drinkable. I highly recommend this wonderful example of the Baltic Porter style!

Kiipis! (Cheers!)

New England Baltic/Imperial Porters

Harpoon Baltic Porter – Harpoon Brewery – Boston, MA – 9.5% ABV

12oz bottle. No freshness date.

It pours a roofing tar black body with a thin wispy light tan head on top.

A big whiff of coffee liqueur fumes up at first pour. A smell of burnt rye bread, earth, chocolate, and horse barn are all quite noticeable. Very Nice!

Coffee, molasses and rye bread make up the main malt characteristics. Mild limey tartness along with a light metallic bitterness attempt to offset the large maltiness, to little avail. However, a big whopping tequila-like alcohol bite factors through.

This is a likeable big brew, though it is a bit over-the-top for the style.

Shipyard Imperial Porter (Pugley’s Signature Series) Shipyard Brewing – Portland, Maine – 7.1% ABV

16.9 oz. brown bottle. No freshness date.
Served in a SA perfect pint glass.
Pours a deep and darkest brown possible. It takes a hard pour to get the mocha head billowing to a 2" level. There is a fair amount of patchy and webby sliding lace.
Smells of chocolate malt, cocoa, coffee and fruit cake carry more minor smells of resinous and citrusy hops. A whiff of black licorice rolls in late.
The flavors follow the smells closely, but the taste of licorice is more noticeable, as is a hint of peppery spices. An ever-so-slightly sour Old Ale tang is detected with some effort.
The body lacks the fullness and depth of some Finnish, Polish and Swedish Baltic Porters, but it is a really enjoyable brew anyway.

Thomas Hooker Imperial Porter – Thomas Hooker Ales & Lager – Brookfield, CT – 7.8% ABV

12 Oz. brown bottle. No freshness date.

Served in a Nonic tumbler.

It pours a very dark oxblood-tinted brown color with a firm and foamy 2” head and some webby rings of lacing.

The aromas are malt forward with strong scents of dark roast coffee, scorched malt, dark cocoa, along with a faint whiff of horse stable (in a good way). Citrusy and tart fruit smells inch through and are followed closely by whiffs of dark rum. A distant smell of macerated berries is noticed.

Tastes of roasted malt, burnt sugar, coffee and cocoa are fairly potent. The tastes of tart fruit and citrus zest provide a mild, yet nice balance to the dark maltiness. A slightly sour tang (it’s a true Porter) develops as it warms. Sweetness emerges a wee bit too assertive, but well within the style range.

The body is not as dense or oily as it appears. After the initial spritzy effervescence wears down, it becomes an easy drinker, which makes me glad I bought four.

Next week (Week 52) – Beer style of the week All-Stars

Quote: “Here’s to the man who drinks strong ale,
and goes to bed quite mellow.
Lives as he ought to live,
and dies a jolly good fellow.” - Old English folk song

Beer Style of the Week - Porter (In honour of the Royal Wedding)

Week 12

We did just brush upon Porters in our profile, a few months back about the Stout style of beer that sort of migrated into its own unique style during the mid-1800’s. For those of you who missed it, here’s the brief history of the Porter style;

The dark Porter was a beer that was popular amongst the river and street porters of London in the early 1700s. The Porter style, as written in some publications was originally a blend of what was named, the Three Threads. This was a blend of ale, old ale and a potent beer called Twopenny (the cost per quart). Sometimes Porter was referred to by the name “Entire Butt”, based upon it having all the blends together in one beer. An aged, stronger Three Threads blend became known as Stout Porter, and in time, shortened to “stout”. In many circles of the day, the name porter and stout became interchangeable. Many Porters today have drifted into the lager family of beers, while stouts remain loyal to the ale family in which they were born and bred.

English Porters true to the style can be a fairly complex beer, with toasty Pale, Crystal, Chocolate and or Brown (sometimes smoked brown) barley malts that display tastes of chocolate, rye toast and strong coffee. There can be a fair amount of bitterness, but it’s usually a pretty balanced beer. A slightly astringent or tart fruit taste can be added via the yeast strains and/or by adding live bacteria to the brew process. The sweetness level is normally subdued yet varied with tastes of licorice, molasses or honey. Some brewers add real chocolate or Coffee during the brew process to accentuate stronger flavors. True Porters range in ABV from around 4.2% ABV on the low end to 6.2% on the high end. Baltic, Robust or Imperial Porters are a subject unto themselves and will be profiled in early winter when that style is more in season.

Jolly Olde England and Surrounding Isles

Fuller’s London Porter

12oz dark brown bottle. Freshness date on back label.

Pours a roofing tar/brown-tinged black with a tan fast-fading head.

The aroma of fresh-brewed coffee billows out. Smells of toasted brown bread and dark roasted malt are lasting.

Flavors of deep roasted barley malt, rich coffee and dark chocolate flow together in the full creamy body.

The ample hop bitterness has a tea-like, and light citrus bitterness.

A nice, easy to drink Porter that tastes more potent than its listed 5.4% abv. Decadent!

St. Peter’s Old-Style Porter – Bungay, Suffolk, UK – 5.1% ABV

Nice olive green flask-style bottle. It pours a red tinged dark chocolate color. The beige head of various sized bubbles fades to a constantly thin-rimmed coating. I enjoy the coffee and chocolate aroma. The whiff of malt, light smoke, burnt caramel and hops are present as well. Chocolate malt with sweet caramel and mild coffee mingle quite nicely. A pleasant citrus bitterness and light taste of plums provide some balance. Nice Porter!

Finland

Huvila Porter – Malmgard, Finland – 5.5% ABV

16.9oz dark brown bottle. Freshness date on label. Served in a nonic pint glass.

A pitch black liquid rests beneath a thick foamy tannish head, with loads of sticky lacing.

A smell of strong coffee rises at first pour, followed by smells of dark chocolate, licorice and floral hops.

The flavor profiles mirror the aromas, almost to a tee. Speaking of tee, I mean Tea. A taste of strong black tea edges forward, as does a slightly citrusy bitterness.

The body is thinner than it appears, but this is normal for the style, so no harm done.

This is a very gulpable brew!

New England Porters

Samuel Adams Holiday Porter – Boston, MA – 5.8% ABV

12oz brown bottle. Freshness date etched into side of label.

It pours a roofing tar color with a beige/tan head that fades to a thin permanent coating.

The aroma of strong coffee leaps out. A smell of bitter chocolate vies for attention as does a whiff of dry dark roasted malt.

Toasty malt flavors are supported by tastes of strong coffee and dark chocolate.

This brew is fairly hoppy for the style. A bitter resinous hop taste mingles with a dry hop and peppery spiciness.

I wonder why this brew isn't offered in its own 6 pack and/or on draught.

Geary’s London Style Porter – Portland, Maine – 4.2% ABV

Its pours an almost pitch black with a thin beige head on top. Aromas of smoky campfire wood (the next day), malt and light floral hop bouquet are right in line with the style. The malt taste is akin to blackened toast, strong coffee and bitter chocolate. The hops have that unmistakable Geary's raw and wild bitterness. A citrus peel and light metallic bite add a nice edgy character to the brew. This Porter could use a dose of sweetness and the body is a bit thin, but I wouldn't hesitate to try it again...and again.

Berkshire Brewing – Coffeehouse Porter – Deerfield, MA. 6.2% ABV

Sampled LOTS of this at the source. Pours...you guessed it; black coffee with a light tan head and some sticky lace. The aroma is, of course, mostly coffee, with some malt and hops. A substantial caramel sweet malt body and abundantly hopped with fairly sharp spicy and mild citrus bitterness. Chocolate notes and a hint of camphor astringency. It borders on a Robust Porter, but I thought you should have a better idea of the possibilities this style can go into. This is a highly gulpable brew!

Worth mentioning is the Otter Creek Stovepipe Porter from Vermont and Newport Storm Blizzard Porter from Rhode Island. Both tasty beers in their own right!

Don’t fear the dark Porter! It really is an approachable beer. Very fluid and toasty and roasty! Flavorful, but not overly so. Great with a variety of cheeses and salamis or grilled meats and veggies. It also pairs nicely with vanilla ice cream or rich, creamy caramel-based puddings.

God save the Queen! God save our Porters!

Quote: “And what this flood of deeper brown,

Which a white foam does also crown,

Less white than snow,

More white than mortar?

Oh, my soul! Can this be Porter?” – The Dejeune