Beer style of the week; American Adjunct Lagers

Hi-Neighbor, Have a Gansett!
http://www.examiner.com/beer-in-boston/beer-style-of-the-week-american-adjunct-lagers

New England; A beer lover’s destination paradise?

A recently published survey in Travel and Leisure magazine, ‘America’s Best Beer Cities’ (re-published and tweeted by blog.seattletweeted) reveals the Top 20 Beer cities in America. http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/americas-best-beer-cities

Surprisingly, 3 New England cities rank in the top 20 (actually 3 in the top 10). Boston rolled in at #7, Portland, Maine came in at #5, and Providence, Rhode Island ranked #4 (Is the Trinity Brewhouse really that wonderful?).

But, that’s not the surprising news. What is, is that true Beer Cities like Portsmouth, New Hampshire (check out the Old Seaport Downtown area), Bar Harbor, Maine, New Haven, Connecticut, or Burlington/Stowe, Vermont didn’t make the cut, while cities such as Nashville, Phoenix (Strip Mall Capital of the US), Houston (HOUSTON??!!!??) and Savanna (a nice town, though) did.

Now it might make more sense when we understand that Portsmouth, New Haven and Burlington weren’t even choices on the survey form, but when we see New York, NY, Asheville, North Carolina and Grand Rapids, Michigan miss the top 20, that’s mystifying. San Diego is #18? Huh? Consider the breweries of Green Flash, Stones, Lost Abbey, Ale Smith and Pizza Port. Along with tons of Pubs and Beer Bars, that city belongs in Top 5…at least!

All in all, The ‘America’s Best Beer Cities’ survey should be celebrated, not criticized, because while America’s Mass mega breweries continue to show continuous decline in sales and interest, despite the billions they waste in the mindless bombardment of idiotic advertising, the “Craft” beer industry enjoyed a 12% profit increase in 2010. And that’s not a new trend. The craft market continues to grow each and every year. That the editors of Travel and Leisure chose to include a beer destination survey article tells us clearly that the craft beer and pub scene is very popular in the US of A. That’s good news for us!

As with any survey, there are faults to be found. Anyone can list their favorite beer cities or towns, so here goes…New England represented in Bold

1. Portland, Oregon

2. Seattle, Washington

3. Boston/Cambridge, Massachusetts

4. Denver, Colorado

5. San Diego, California (distance between beer is vast)

6. Portland, Maine

7. Grand Rapids, Michigan

8. Portsmouth, New Hampshire

9. Austin, Texas

10. Burlington/Stowe, Vermont (close enough when you’re in Vermont)

11. Asheville, North Carolina

12. New York, New York

13. San Francisco, California

14. Amherst/Northampton, Massachusetts

15. Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota

16. Milwaukee, Wisconsin

17. Bar Harbor, Maine (there are lots of beer options in one small area…YA!)

18. New Haven, Connecticut

19. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

20. Providence, Rhode Island

There was/still is a lot of self-debate going on while making this Top 20 up. My friend Bob who lives in Tucson, Arizona is quite happy with the beer options in that ol’ town. The folks of St. Louis or Kansas City, Missouri probably feel their cities should be included in any top 20, and maybe they’re right. If that’s how they feel, they should make up their own damn top 20 list. What are your favorite beer destinations?

Drink up fellow New Englanders! There’s plenty of great beer nearby!

Cheers!

Quote: “Come, my lad, and drink some beer.” – Samuel Johnson (1709-1784)

Beer Style of the Week - A somewhat reluctant nod to "Euro" Lagers

Week 24

In US beer lexicon, Euro Lager is sort of an insult or slur towards the mass-mega-breweries of Europe (they brew massive quantities of good, but not great beer). They are the European counterpart to America’s own “Adjunct” Lagers (Mass-mega-brewers of swill). But upon closer inspection and reflection, along with a bit of hazy nostalgic recollection, maybe the Euro Lager ain’t so bad after all.

We appreciated the noticeable upgrade in taste and quality when we sampled our first Euro Lager (that is if you really like the aroma and taste of beer) and once that door was opened there was no turning back. We thought, “So, this is what real beer is supposed to taste like. Ummm good!”

The Euro Lager was, and still is in many cases, the gateway beer away from the Americanized Adjunct Lagers and into the wonderful world of “Craft” beer. For the most part, the Euro lagers beat the Adjuncts in their beeriness, because they tend to use more and often better quality hops. They use real barley malt, instead of rice, corn and other mealy adjuncts. Oh, some may use a little rice or corn in the brew process to “clarify” the beer, but it’s not meant to be a barley malt substitute. On the other hand, most of the Euro lagers, and let’s reveal some brand names here, share a common and stupid, if not unforgiveable “marketing” mistake; they use green bottles to sell their beer in. Ever smell a sun or light-struck Heineken or Beck’s, or Stella Artois? SKUNKED!!! The head brewers at these breweries must suffer a degree of depression at the end of the day, knowing their efforts will eventually run afoul in the green-bottled death of beer.

He or she must feel a little sense of relief on the days they can or keg their product.

Another common trait of the style is that they (the beers) have neither a strong malt nor hop presence. With a few exceptions, they do not reveal any easily identifiable hop types (Kronenbourg’s Alsatian hops are noticeable to some). You might say, drinking a Euro Lager is akin to drinking a Blended Scotch Whiskey as opposed to drinking a German or Czech Pils which is more like drinking Single Malt Scotch.

Who are these Euro Lagers?

To name a few of the Green Bottle Gang: Heineken from Holland, Grolsch and Oranjeboom from Netherlands, Beck’s and Lowenbrau from Germany, Stella Artois (my mother-in-law’s favorite) of Belgium, Menabrea Birra of Italy, and Kronenbourg 1664 from France. If given a choice, go with the canned or tapped options of these beers, unless you’re absolutely certain they are cool, fresh and have been kept out of any sun or fluorescent lighting.

Others, not in green bottles representing Scandinavia are: Carlsberg and Tuborg Gold from Denmark, Lapin Kulta IV and Koff III or IV from Finland, and Ringnes Pils from Norway.

You can also find loose representations of the Euro Lager style in such faraway places as: Japan (Sapporo Reserve), Brazil (Antarctica Original), Thailand (Singha) and New Zealand (Steinlager).

So, while all of above beers may be different in their own way, they are the same in that they tend to be easy drinkers. Never bland, yet never remarkable. No spectacular hop, yeast, or barley characteristics. They are the quintessential, tapping the palette, gateway beers to the wonderful world of the craft brews of the world.

Hurry down to your local packie! There’s more than likely a 12 pack on sale; doesn’t matter much, which brand. Get those dogs and burgers on the grill or pop your favorite frozen pizza in the oven! It’s Euro-time!

Cheers and Skol!

Quote: “Beer was not made to be moralized about,

but to be drunk” – Theodore Maynard - (1890–1956)

4th of July Beer style of the week – Independence Day-inspired beers

Week 22

The course of history might have been drastically altered had, for instance, Paul Revere ducked into a pub for a few pints on his way to Concord, or had he detoured to Concord, New Hampshire and begun ringing bells to warn the British, as the history-challenged Mama Bear from Alaska suggested.

Historical inaccuracies aside, we can take comfort and a measure of pride that 235 years ago a nearly cosmic alignment of smart, independence-minded leaders, hard-working farmers, sailors, business owners and clergymen stood together, shoulder to shoulder and drank beer.

And they didn’t just huddle secretly together in taverns to slug down beer to discuss sports and women. No, they decided they didn’t like living under tyrannical rule of law or being taxed without representation, so they drafted a Declaration of Independence and after fighting war with King George III’s army followed by several more rounds of ale, drafted The Constitution of The United States.

Was it any coincidence that founding fathers George Washington, Samuel Adams, Thomas Jefferson (Great, great, great, great, great grandfather to George Jefferson of “The Jefferson’s”), John Hancock and Ben Franklin were all brewers of beer? I don’t think so!

You’re probably asking yourself, “What prompted Don to write stuff about Independence Day and somehow try to tie it into an article about beer?”

It was Samuel Adams (a real Patriot) Boston Stock Ale. It triggers my patriotism every time.

Passionate beer lovers well up with pride whenever we hear of how George Washington, in the heat of war took on a congress that suggested beer rations for the troops be cut in half. General George knew that in addition to providing some nutritional value, beer gave the troops a much needed boost in morale. You might say, beer won the war. I wouldn’t go that far.

This Independence Day, as we gather with those near and dear to us for American-style BBQ, let’s raise a glass or two to those who came before us to fight for the freedoms we enjoy today. And what patriotic beers should we raise in New England this 4^th?

Beers for working at the grill and snacking on appetizers

Samuel Adams Boston Stock Ale – Boston, MA – 5.2% ABV

Sam Adams Boston Ale/Stock Ale is my favorite "everyday" ale. When researching and rating a vast array of ales and lagers, from delicate pilsners to overwhelming imperial stouts and barleywines, it's good to find an ale with which to refresh the palette or to simply enjoy without research in mind (yes, at times we need a break from the daily grind). This ale has a deep copper color with reddish hues, nice malty body and is amply hopped. The separation between the distinct malt and hops flavors, smooth out and become more balanced after a few gulps. The fresh finishing hop aroma lingers. There's a clean fruity finish and nice long lasting head. Now I’ve gone and made myself thirsty for another one!

Liberty Ale - Pale Ale– Anchor Brewing – San Francisco, California – 6% ABV

Yes, it’s not from New England, but it does inspire “Liberty” and the pursuit of Hoppiness!

The rich copper color shines brightly. I believe Maaco should offer this color in car paint. They could call it 'Liberty Deep Copper'. It would certainly look great on my Ford Edge!

The wonderful hop bouquet is immediately noticed and appreciated when poured into the glass and unlike most American pale ales, the aroma lingers, albeit more subtlety as the brew disappears.

After taking the time to fully admire the fine hop nose and rich copper color, the next outstanding trait of Liberty Pale Ale one notices is the hop distinctive taste. The fresh whole hops are in abundance, yet not overwhelming. There's a crisp metallic sharp-edged bitterness with light citrus undertones. The sharpness diminishes slightly as you drink it down and the hop to malt difference becomes less exaggerated and more balanced and smooth. The medium to full malt body is lightly sweet with a hint of nuts. It seems to me that a lot of care has been taken in the malt roasting process.

Main Course Beers

Salads and Cold Plates

Les Biere Des Sans Culottes – Biere de Garde – Brasserie La Choulette – Hordain, France – 7% ABV

This beer is not only a nod to the French who helped us achieve our independence, it’s a fantastic Biere de Garde! Viva la revolution!

16.9oz tall green, corked bottle. Best Before date notched on the side. Nice artwork on the label paying tribute to the "trouserless" laborers who did the handiwork of the French Revolution. BTW - The fighters appear to be wearing trousers, but the woman leading the charge has raised her flag while lowering the top of her blouse. Ooh la la! Merci!!!

It pours a cloudy honey gold color with a small, but lasting white head and some sticky and trailing lace.

The aroma is a pleasant mix of dried malt, hay, lemony citrus and faint whiff of alcohol.

The malt has a nice herbal quality to it. A light sweetness and buttery biscuit taste provide a uniquely satisfying maltiness.

A lime-like bitterness is upfront. Hints of coriander, cloves and faint taste of pears adds to the brew's fine subtle character. The 7%abv is well disguised.

This is one those rare beer purchases that turn out to be an amazing find. I ALWAYS wish I had bought more.

Grilled and/or Smoked Meats

Geary’s Hampshire Special - D.L. Geary’s Brewery – Portland, Maine – 7% ABV

This was a winter seasonal - Must Try! Now it’s available year-round. Deep golden bronze/amber with a tint of red. Very complex dry robust malt with a trace of sweetness. Powerfully hopped, then dry hopped for good measure. The maltiness rolls forward throughout the glass and begins to reveals a trace of berries and some smoothness. An unusual, but nice pine essence is long lasting. The alcohol is noticed, though not overly so. The creamy beige head lingers and nice lace is formed. As with all of D.L. Geary’s brews, there sort of a raw wildness, like Maine itself. It’s easy to picture a Norman Rockwell Maine coast pub scene in winter where the cheerful patrons are toasting one another with a frosty mug of Hampshire Special. Now that really warms the heart! BTW Hampshire Special pairs really well with hearty stews and grilled or smoked meats. Try braising a roast with this ale in place of Burgundy wine.

Desserts

Blueberry, Strawberry and Whipped Cream Parfait (Red White & Blue)

We need a beer here that can pair with tart fruit, yet melds well with rich sweet cream.

Thomas Hooker Liberator Dopplebock – Bloomfield, Connecticut – 8% ABV

16.9oz dark brown swing top bottle. Bottled in 2006.

It pours a very dark and deep ruby-hued mahogany color with a fast-fading beige head, along with thin scattered patches of lacing.

It smells like a hop monster with big whiffs of caramel and damp hay accompanied by notes of dried barley and leather.

Tastes of burnt crème brulee, sweet caramel, Ovaltine, milk chocolate, tobacco and leather are all quite upfront and noticeable. A slight background taste of prune juice is detected in the background.

A mellow Myers Lemony tartness provides some contrast to the big, bold malty body, as does a dose of a metallic bite. Though make no mistake, this brew is all about the malt structure with well-applied hop reminders.

Lovely Stuff!

Rich, creamy Cinnamon Ice Cream or Indian Pudding

Shipyard Smashed Pumpkin – Portland, Maine – 9% ABV

Pumpkins were widely used for brewing in early America’s history. The colonists of Maine built “shipyards” to build the ships which were used to defeat the British. Shipyard Founder and Brewer, Alan Pugsley emigrated from England. How’s that for rationalizing?

22oz brown bottle. Served in a Chimay goblet.

It pours an oily, orange-hued amber color with a beige head along with some wisps of trailing lacing.

A strong and delightful whiff of rum-soaked pumpkin pie rises at first pour. Do I actually smell the crust! The nutmeg spiciness is subdued, but thoughts of Thanksgiving dessert flood my senses. A solid malty smell mingles with some spicy and citrusy hops. Dark rum in the nose never fades.

The flavors are bold and upfront. Very little in the way of subtleties. Big spiced pumpkin taste, Big Doughy Maltiness, Big Ruminess, and not so big, yet noticeable hoppiness.

SO much better than Shipyard's other Pumpkin Ale, and not because it's much bigger. It's big but balanced and wonderfully rich and decadent.

Let's see how it ages...

Ok, let the fireworks and patriotic music begin! God Bless America!

Quote: ““An attack on one of our sister colonies, to compel submission to arbitrary taxes, is an attack made on all British America. That we will not hereafter, directly or indirectly import, or cause to be imported, from great Britain, and of the goods hereafter enumerated, either for sale or for our own use . . . beer, ale, porter, malt.” – George Washington - 1774

Beer Style of the Week - Blonde or Golden Ale

In honor of all you mothers and/or those of you who have or have had a mother. Most mothers have been blonde at least sometime in their life. Right? If so, this style is for you/them.

The Golden or Blonde Ale is as the name implies, pale blonde or gold in color. Unfiltered Blondes tend to be a bit cloudy. The head in most cases is snow white to light beige.

The aroma and flavor profiles vary widely from country to country. Belgian and Netherland Blondes can be fairly potent with a whiff of alcohol upfront an edgy hop and spice-forward smell and taste. Those from France tend to be a bit more subdued and somewhat balanced (think Amber Ale). The UK Goldens tend to be drier (think Saltine Cracker dry) and lower in alcohol than their European counterparts. One thing Blondes have in common is a subdued fruitiness in aroma and taste. As can be expected, the US versions disregard any profile stamp and are a mixed bag.

Belgian Blondes

Brewery Lefebvre - Hopus Ale Quenast, Belgium 8.3% abv
11.2oz stubby brown flip top bottle. Best before date stamped on back label. Served in Kapittel Watou stemmed snifter.
Pours a cloudy caramel toffee color with a fluffy white head and loads of sticky, clinging lace.
The smell is a little disjointed with sour yeast, dry hay, horse barn, oak, floral hops and gin.
The flavors are rangy as well, but with more complimentary results. Edgy astringent hops, lemon zest, gin, orange peel and Orange Lifesavers. A little metallic tang is noticed in the finish.
The mouthfeel is a little raspy at the first few gulps but mellows out as it warms.
For some reason, I feel this tart and bitter brew will go nicely with lemon tarts or bitter pineapple upside down cake.

Affligem Blonde Affligem Brewery – Opwijk, Belgium 6.8 ABV

11.2 oz. Thin brown bottle. Produced on date on back label.

Pours a dirty blonde with a beige head and trails of patchy lacing.

Smells of barn grain and fruity citrus are quite noticeable. A light whiff of white rum floats in.

Sweet caramel and a pear-like fruitiness ride a fairly solid malty body. Citrus and peppery spice notes balance things nicely. A bit of warming alcoholic slides in and out.

The finish is clean, yet the spiciness lingers.

A good beer to pair with rustic chicken dishes.

French Blonde

Jenlain Blonde (Biere de Garde, Blonde) Jenlain, France – 7.5% ABV

11.2oz brown bottle. Freshness date noted on label. Served in an Allagash tulip glass.

It pours a yellow golden color with a good sized white head and some patchy lacing.
A sweet, biscuity malty smell rises at first pour. Floral and resinous hop aromas drift in. A little mixed fruit cup and whiffs of alcohol are noticed.
Slightly citrus and edgy tea-like hop bitterness rests on a biscuity bed of malt. A little vodka-like alcoholic bite sneaks in midway through a lasts throughout, especially in the breath.

This Blonde is a bit sweeter and bit richer in body than I expected. And it’s a fairly potent brew for the style, but overall a nice, easy-to-gulp brew.

UK Blonde

Harviestoun Brewery - Bitter and Twisted - Scotland - 4.2% abv
From a review in 2003
A real treat to find this at the NERAX 2003! Bright golden in color with medium-sized bubbles and a fast fading head. The lace is thin, but a little sticky. The hoppy aroma is slightly mellowed by hints of lightly roasted malt. Sharp, citrusy bitterness with an edgy aggressiveness. Mellows, sweetens and balances out toward the end of the glass. Very gulpable!

New England

Mayflower Brewing Golden Ale - Plymouth, MA - 4.7% ABV
12 oz. dark brown bottle. Pkg. date stamped on label.
Served in a Sam Adams fluted glass.
A firm 2" snow-white head floats upon a pale clear golden body. Wispy trails of webby lace rim the glass.
The smell is grassy, with a mix of dry malt and dried fruit.
Tastes of edgy metallic and tea-like hops are forward. The lightly roasted malt has a vague sweetness and wheat cracker taste.
It's a tad bit overly dry, but true to the style, so can't fault it there. Nice session brew!

Rapscallion Premier – Holyoke, MA – 7% ABV

On tap. Served in a tulip glass.

It pours an amber-hued golden color, with a fluffy, off-white head.

A mild dry grainy smell is upfront. A light blend of sweet candy, fruit cup, with a dose of citrus and resins roam around. A whiff of white rum fades in and out.

This Golden is a bit sweet for the style, yet it’s a pleasing sweetness. Bready, grassy and caramel malts carry hints of citrus and fruit cup, along with some warming alcohol. A faint taste of ripe banana and spices peek through.

The body lacks in dryness and is a bit full and rounded for the style.

It’s a good beer to pair with a wide variety of cheeses and salamis, or vanilla-based desserts.

Cheers and Salut!

Quote: “ Ere’s to English women an’ a quart of English beer”. – Rudyard Kipling