Beer style of the week; The New England Beer All-Star Team

Week 52

It has been a lot of fun drinking and thinking about all the wonderful beers profiled in Beer style of the week for the past 51 Sundays. As a result of the column, many people have asked not only what my very favorite beer style is, but what my favorite beer is. The simplified answer to both questions has always been, depends. Depends on the weather, the season, the mood I’m in, the company I keep, the spontaneous urge to try something different, the meal or snack in front of me, or just what is being offered me at the moment.

Now if you were to hold a gun to my head and demand an answer, NOW! (not that I personally suggest this approach). I could begin prattling off all the styles and beers near and dear to me, along with providing minute detailed analysis, specific situational rational and cloudy recollections of my every thought about beer in general. You would turn the gun on yourself…

That said, there are some beers I come back to time after time. They are dependable beers. I look forward to their company. I miss them when they’re out of season. Some foods must be paired with certain beers. You salivate just thinking about that special occasion (must wipe the keyboard now).

Here they are…

Spring Time Beer

Maibock (Takes the sting out of a damp drizzly day)

Narragansett Bock – Narragansett Brewing – Providence, Rhode Island – 6.5% ABV

16 oz. can. No freshness date, except for some code stamped on the bottom.

Served in a tall Harpoon Nonic glass.

The color is brassy amber with a fast-fading white head. Thin wisps of webby lacing cling to the glass.

A grassy, wet hay smell dominates, followed by a light peaty malty aroma. A mild citrusy smell is followed by slightly boozy white rum fuminess.

The malt and hop flavors are fairly evenly matched. Bready dough, honey sweetness, metallic and citrusy hop bite and a separate and unmistakable rummy alcoholic punch all greet the buds in random order. A very faint taste of orange zest peeks in.

It's an unusual bock in that the flavor profiles remain distinct and apart, even as it warms.

This is definitely one of the better beer values ($6.50 a 16 oz.sixer, no less) in the New England area.

American Double (Pull on an old sweater, start up a low-burning beach fire, grab a hoppy/boozy brew…enjoy!)

Heady Topper – The Alchemist – Waterbury, Vermont – 8% ABV

Shared a 22oz bottle with a very generous friend.

Served in Delirium goblets.

Pours a hazy pale orange color with a fluffy, but fading white head. Lots of sticky and patchy lacing rims the glass.

A big whiff of pine and wild flowers blast out of the gate. A resinous hop aroma rises and pulls a dry malty smell, along with some perfumy citrus and a little mellow rum.

The tastes follow the aromas very closely. Very hoppy, yet held in check by a solid caramel malt with some honey sweetness.

So flavorful, yet so drinkable!

Summer Beer

Pilsner (Lawn-mowing or Goin’ Fishin’ Beer)

Samuel Adams Noble Pils – Boston Beer Company – Boston, Massachusetts – 4.9% ABV

On Tap. Pils Glass. Boston

It pours a shiny brassy golden color with a frothy snow-covered head. A good amount of sticky lacing trims the glass.

A very fragrant smell of flowery and citrus hops rises from the glass. A light aroma of fresh baked bread is in the background. A sweet malty smell lingers throughout.

Not as hoppy as I had prepared my taste-buds for, but plenty of hop tastes to ponder. There's citrusy and metallic, and floral and resinous. And a touch of leather and tobacco. My oh my, this is good!

A nice sweet, doughy malty backbone keeps the hoppiness in Czech.

It's difficult to have just one of these babies. Very well done!

Helles Lager (Refreshing after exercise, or day at the beach, or listening to the Red Sox on the radio on a hot summer’s night)

Thomas Hooker Munich Style Lager – Thomas Hooker Ales & Lagers – Bloomfield, CT – 4.6% ABV

Served in a standard pint glass.

Pours a pale yellow golden color with a solid snow-white head and some webby and trailing lacing throughout.

The aroma carries a mild noble hoppiness and a grainy bread smell upfront. A light whiff of wild flowers and herbs peeks through.

The flavors are very balanced. The lightly roasted malt has a touch of sweetness. The hops provide some metallic tang and a mild lime-like citrusy bitterness.

While the body is light in color, it has some depth. As the spritzy carbonation fades, a sweet and rounded caramel sweetness emerges providing a slick and refreshing, gulpable brew. Lots of flavors for a fairly small beer!

Saison (Late Summer – Cool Evenings)

Jack D’or – Pretty Things Beer & Ale Project – Westport, MA – 6.4% ABV

22oz brown bottle. Bottled on date on top label.

Served in a Piraat fluted goblet.

It pours a very deep and cloudy caramel/amber color with a thin beige head on top along with loads of lacing.

Nice citrusy and musty fruit smells rise at first pour. Sweet fruit and spicy smells linger. A light alcohol fuminess comes and goes.

The flavors represent the style very nicely, with the exception of the hop profile being the dominant taste, though it works extremely well for this particular farmhouse. Edgy citrus peel and resinous hoppy bitterness are tempered with a lightly sweet caramel malt. A faint metallic tang inches through in the background. Tastes of a crusty baguette come to mind.

It's a very well-made brew! Lots of creativity involved with this Saison Americain!

Fall Beer

Newport Storm Regenschauer Oktoberfest – Coastal Extreme Brewing – Newport, RI – 5.6% ABV

12oz brown bottle. No freshness date. Bottle code 0.223 (?) I felt compelled to include a representative from Rhode Island as it has been unrepresented in this Beer Style of the week series.

IMHO, this is one of Coastal's better offerings. It pours an Autumn-like honey/amber with orangey hues. The off-white head fades rather fast. A robust sweet malt aroma blends with a bit of hops and mild alcohol fuminess. The malty body is reminiscent of a Vienna/Oktoberfest blend - Velvety smooth, almost oily, and just a tad pasty. A mild citrus, ripe pear taste and light spiciness are in proper proportion to this malty brew. This will go well with Autumn Stew (Squash, apples, chicken stock, spices and a dash of maple syrup)

Pumpkin Ale

CBC Great Pumpkin – Cambridge Brewing Company – Cambridge, MA – 4.5% ABV

22 oz. brown bottle. Bottled on date and Batch # stamped.

Poured in a nonic tumbler.

It has a shiny, orange-hued copper color with a thin to medium-sized white head along with some lace dotting the glass.

It smells similar to a mild pale ale with caramel malt, dry grass, tea-like hops and whiffs of pumpkin and spice that linger in the background throughout.

The flavors are very balanced. You get the pleasure of seeking the tastes rather than them finding you. Mellow tastes of fresh doughy pumpkin bread, blend with mild tea and lemon with honey flavors. The spiciness is in check. A little peppery nutmeg, a dose of tart citrus, and then a clean finish.

Wonderful, wonderful creation here!

Imperial Pumpkin (while Reading ‘The Legend of Sleepy Hollow’ on a frosty, moon-lit night)

Smashed Pumpkin – Shipyard Brewing Co. – Portland, Maine – 9% ABV

22oz brown bottle. Served in a Chimay goblet.

It pours an oily, orange-hued amber color with a beige head along with some wisps of trailing lacing.

A strong and delightful whiff of rum-soaked pumpkin pie rises at first pour. I think I can actually smell the crust! The nutmeg spiciness is subdued, but thoughts of Thanksgiving dessert flood my senses. A solid malty smell mingles with some spicy and citrusy hops. Dark rum in the nose never fades.

The flavors are bold and upfront. Very little in the way of subtleties. Big spiced pumpkin taste, Big Doughy Maltiness, Big Ruminess, and not so big, yet noticeable hoppiness.

SO much better than Shipyard's other Pumpkin Ale, and not because it's much bigger. It's big but balanced and wonderfully rich and decadent.

Winter Beer

English Strong Ale/Warmer (Button up your overcoat)

Geary’s Hampshire Special – DL Geary’s Brewing – Portland, Maine – 7% ABV

This is a winter seasonal - Must Try! Deep golden bronze/amber with a tint of red. Very complex dry robust malt with a trace of sweetness. Powerfully hopped, then dry hopped for good measure. The maltiness rolls forward throughout the glass and begins to reveals a trace of berries and some smoothness. An unusual, but nice pine essence is long lasting. The alcohol is noticed, though not overly so. The creamy beige head lingers and nice lace is formed. As with all of D.L. Geary’s brews, there sort of a raw wildness, like Maine itself. It’s easy to picture a Norman Rockwell Maine coast pub scene in winter where the cheerful patrons are toasting one another with a frosty mug of Hampshire Special. Now that really warms the heart! BTW – Hampshire Special pairs really well with hearty stews. Try braising a roast with this ale in place of Burgundy wine.

Imperial Stout (Baby, it’s COLD outside!)

Smuttynose Imperial Stout – Smuttynose Brewing – Portsmouth, NH – 9.8% ABV

Reviewed in 2003

This "Big Beer Series" is proof that BA and like beer lover groups are making an impression upon brewers and they are responding by digging out the top ingredients and notching up their brewing techniques in order to appease our ever growing thirst for excellent beer. This mild Imperial Stout is pitch black in color with a thin brown fading head and lots of sticky, patchy lace. Bitter chocolate, sweet malt, hop and mild alcohol aroma. A thick and rich chocolaty malt is nearly perfectly matched with sharp citrus bitterness and lightly astringent and pine-like flavors and light alcohol lung-feel. The creamy, almost oily liquid is quite luscious and very drinkable, although the intensity fades towards the end of the glass.

Quadrupel

Allagash FOUR – Allagash Brewing Co. – Portland, Maine – 10% ABV

Corked brown bomber. Man, was that thing under pressure! Poured into Piraat tulip-shaped glass.

It pours a deep amber and mahogany color with a firm beige head.

A big whiff of sweet malt rises up. The smell of a freshly opened tin of toffee comes to mind, as does the smell of Kahlua.

Abundantly malted with tastes of buttery caramel, fresh banana bread, and hint of maple.

The hops provide the citrusy flavors of sweet pink grapefruit and orange zest, along with a good blend of peppery spices. A faint taste of cloves and coriander sneak in as accompaniments, but just to add complexity not to showcase themselves.

Nice warming brew!

Everyday Beer

Sam Adams Boston Ale/Stock Ale – Boston Beer Company – Boston, MA – 5.4% ABV

Stock Ale is my favorite "everyday" ale. When researching and rating a vast array of ales and lagers, from delicate pilsners to over-whelming imperial stouts and barleywines, it's good to find an ale with which to refresh the palette or to simply enjoy without research in mind (yes, at times we need a break from the daily grind). This ale has a deep copper color with reddish hues, nice malty body and is amply hopped. The separation between the distinct malt and hops flavors, smooth out and become more balanced after a few gulps. The fresh finishing hop aroma lingers. There's a clean fruity finish and nice long lasting head. It goes very well with a wide variety of foods. Now I’ve gone and made myself thirsty for one!

Well, there you have it. 52 weeks have passed and yet there is something like 13,000 beers yet to discover. I hope you’ve enjoyed ‘Beer styles of week’ as much as I’ve enjoyed putting it together.

Now back to work I go!

Cheers everyone!

Quote: “Beer, if drank with moderation, softens the temper, cheers the spirit and promotes health." Thomas Jefferson

Beer style of the week; Hop Happy Christmas Ales

Week 43

As promised back in week 41, we examine a style (well, not actually a style, but a kind of ale) that expresses a brewer’s interpretations of a spicy/hoppy beer for the Christmas Season. Week 41 focused upon English-style Winter Warmers. Week 42 was all about German-style Christmas Lagers. This week we crank up the IBU’s (International Bittering Units) to look at ales with their roots firmly from the Pacific Northwest that explode into, rather than ease into the holidays.

Malt is to Winter Warmers and German Christmas Lagers, what hops are to Christmas Ales. These ales are definitely hop forward with firm, yet never heavy malt support. The hops can be citrusy, resinous and/or tea-like, but they should all include some spruce or piney bitterness qualities to get us thinking about Christmas trees. These hop happy ales can be in the spicy Brown or Red Ale, Old Ale, IPA to Imperial IPA bitterness ranges. They are deep copper to garnet-hued mahogany in color and wide-ranging ABV levels from 6.2% - 11%. They may also be disguised as Barleywines.

It’s fairly common to detect berries and spices in a Christmas Ale, because some brewers add both merry berries and holiday spices into the vat. And speaking of berries and spice…

From the land of origin

Our Special Ale (2005) - Anchor Brewing – San Francisco, California – 5.8% ABV

Reviewed in 2008. I have a sneaking suspicion that this Christmas Ale may be on the verge of ending its wonderful drinkable life. Maybe another year, perhaps two. That is a moot point, however, because I don't have another one with which to judge, besides Anchor tweaks their Christmas Ale recipe each year.
It pours a nearly impenetrable ruby tinged black. There is virtually no head or lace, except for a thin beige rim. A piney aroma is backed by the smell of cherries, sweet malt, vanilla and warming alcohol. The aroma is supported by a lightly musty and woody smell. The body is fairly thick and oily. Flavors of cherry cough drops, toffee, light lemon citrus and faint taste of sweet chocolate flow into the far reaches of the taste buds. An oaky flavor seems to carry a light taste of vanilla and sherry. And ever so slightly, a taste of tart apples begins to emerge. I would like to try this again next year, and the next….

Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale – Chico, California – 6.8% ABV – Served in a nonic tumbler.

This deep copper/amber IPA with a solid beige head is a joy to behold. The lace is webby and clumpy in spots.

The aroma is outstanding! Fresh floral and citrusy hops dominate. The faint smell of spruce, sweet malt, fruit and alcohol are present.

While this is an amply malted brew, with some caramel and herbal qualities, the focus here is on the hops. Sharp-edged grapefruit bitterness and piney esters are in abundance. A light fruity background and a bit of metallic tang, along with some noticeable warming alcohol, make for a very flavorful ale, without resorting to an overwhelming quantity of alcohol. Celebration Ale will be one of the Christmas Eve offerings at my home this year.

YuleSmith – AleSmith Brewing

Served in a Piraat Goblet.

Pours a deep dark amber color with an orange-hued beige head and lots of lacing.

Smells of sweet caramel malt, citrus and piney hops mingle and mix at first pour. A light whiff of berries slide in as does a fumy dark rum vapor.
The flavors are hop forward with tastes of pine, a bit of citrus and mild woody notes. A solid caramel malt presence carries a bit of a peppery spice kick. The malt edges through as it warms. The rummy alcohol remains fairly well hidden, but trust that it is there…
This is a creamy, highly hopped brew that goes down smooth and warm. A very nice Christmas fireside beer!

New England

Gritty McDuff’s Christmas Ale – Portland, Maine – 6.2% ABV

12 oz. brown bottle. Served in a SA Perfect Pint glass.
Pours a dark amber with a very fast-fading off-white head.
A smell of fruit cake leaps out at first pour. Smells of caramel malt, toffee, tea-like hops, plums and a whiff of rum follow.
A sweet fruity malt flavor carries tastes of citrus, tea, berries, edgy hops and white rum.
This is a very fluid, liquidy slip & sliding brew.
Highly drinkable, plus it’s a good value.

Holidale – Berkshire Brewing – South Deerfield, Massachusetts – 9.6% ABV

22oz dark brown bottle. No freshness date.

This Barleywine pours a lovely orange-hued hazy amber with a small, but slow fading beige head.

The first smell to rise is roasted malt soaked in Sangria. A light smell of citrus follows. I detected a whiff of alcohol, but it went into seclusion quickly and never did return.

Sweet caramel malt and vanilla cookie dough flavors are front and center. A faint taste of prune juice is noticed.

Lemony citrus bitterness and a bit of orange zest counter the malty sweetness nicely. A light herbal, spruce taste and peppery spiciness provide a pleasant finish. The white rum-like fruit punch flavor reminds me of the holidays.

If we enjoy these beers in the spirit for which they were intended, rather than take into question the brewer’s style-naming motives, we can all appreciate the fuzzy and warm feeling inside that these beers provide. Try strong aged cheeses, salamis with spicy mustards, hearty meat stews, or rich sweet desserts.

Next week; Biere de Noel

Cheers!

Quote: ““Then to the spicy nut-brown ale.” – John Milton (1608-1674)

Beer style of the week; German-style Christmas Biers

Week 42

The jolly Germans are a Christmas-respecting people. On Christmas Days past, they have taken time out from intense fighting during WWI and WWII to exchange gifts, food and drink with the enemy of the day only to resume battle on December 26^th.

As the song, ‘O Tannenbaum’ rings out through the Rhineland, you are likely find mugs of dark beer (bier) swaying in rhythm and hoisted towards the glimmering star atop the Yule Tree. And this isn’t just any run-of-the-mill Euro-Lager. Nein, nein, nein!!! This is deep, rich, soul-warming German-style Christmas Bier! Bocks, Double Bocks und uber rich lagers…

Land of origin

Mahr’s Christmas Bock – Mahrs Brau – Bamberg, Germany – 6% ABV

This was my first Christmas Bock. What was it to be compared to?

It pours a deep amber with a thin off-white head and some trails of lace. An initial malty aroma fades rather quickly. A Euro-hop smell picks up where the malt fades. A distant, yet constant earthy smell remains throughout. At first swallow, the malt body seems a little thin for the winter-type style, but as it warms, more malty characteristics are revealed. A little sweet caramel and lots fresh baked bread favors begin to assert themselves. The hops possess a metallic bite and just a hint of limey bitterness. This brew sweetens and displays a lightly herbal character late in the glass. All in all a pretty good winter brew.

It can be compared to (distantly) Young's Winter Warmer.

Samichlaus (Santa Claus) – Brauerei Schoss Eggenberg – Vorchdorf, Austria – 14% ABV

The World’s Most Extraordinary Beer (says so on the label). Bottled 2002 – rated in 2004. This Rare Malt Liquor is dark maple in color with a fast fading beige head. The aroma is rummy and malty with a faint trace of hops sneaking through. The full sweet malt houses highly hopped citrus bitterness. Dark rum flavors mingle with strong honey and light lemony taste. Strongly Alcoholic at 14% abv. But, it slides easily and dangerously down.

One of my favorite ports or sherries.

New England

Samuel Adams Winter Lager – Boston Beer Company – Boston, Massachusetts – 5.5%

On draft. Served in a standard pint glass.

It pours a dark ruby-hued amber color with a solid 2" beige head and plenty of web and trailing lacing.

The first smell is sweet wet malt and nut bread. A light whiff of mixed fruit cup with a hint of nutmeg and peppery spice follows.

If there was a liquid bock honey granola bar, this would be the recipe, less a mild taste of white rum and raisins.

A bit of lime-like citrus taste pulls through in the aftertaste.

All in all, a solid Bock...not spectacular...but a solid brew.

Winter Works (Zoiglbier) – Hingham Beer Works – Hingham, MA – 5% ABV

On draft

Pours a rusty copper color with a thin, fast-fading off-white head and lots of lacing.

A smell of crushed rye crackers, toasted malt and resinous hops are distinct but equal until the sweetness of the malt inches forward and takes center stage. A wisp of a dark toast is in the background.

The flavors pretty much mirror the aromas, except you notice citrusier and tobacco notes.

This is a real easy drinker. How a Zoiglbier (originally a “community” beer) is perceived as a winter beer is unclear, but I’ll buy it anyway.

So in the spirit of the season, the charitable thing to do is to joyfully drink all Christmas or Holiday offerings without being overly critical of the naming of the beer style. If the brewer brews us style that makes us rejoice, let it be. Enjoy it and give thanks!

Prost and Cheers!

Quote:

German - Am juengsten Tage wirds geschaut,

was jeder hier fuer Bier gebraut!

English - On judgment day it will be clear,

what everyone had brewed as beer.

Beer style of the week; Winter Warmers

Week 41

We’re not quite ready for the roaring fireplace and flannel Long Johns, but there is a nip in the air. Jack Frost visits most mornings and sleety rain nibbles at the extremities. Time for the Winter Warmers!

The Brits have relied upon sweet, malty brews to sooth the chill for centuries. Full-bodied and generally with subdued, yet balanced hops, the Winter Warmers are easy drinkers. No need for the heavy winter parka when your favorite sweater will do.

An odd reality about the style is that it’s not actually a “style” per say, but a kind of beer. Winter Warmers can come in the form of an Ale or a Lager. As mentioned earlier they are malty brews, with just enough hops to keep the sweetness in check. Good Warmers should range in ABV from around 5.2% - 7.7%. The color should be a deep, rich amber to a dark mahogany. Some brewers may add a little seasonal spices, but the spiciness should be subdued and never over-the-top.

So what’s the difference between a Winter Warmer and a Christmas Ale? I’d say without firm conviction, yet from vigilant observation, that the difference lies in the hoppiness and/or spiciness. Christmas Ales tend to lean towards the style range of full-bodied strong Pale Ales with some spruce-like and/or piney hop characteristics. Think Christmas Trees. There are also Biere Noel (Belgian Christmas Ales) to consider. These two styles will be profiled separately in weeks 44 and 45 respectively.

Land of Origin

Young’s Winter Warmer – Wells Young LTD – Bedford, England – 5% ABV

This tan/oxblood Winter brew is topped by a fast fading beige head with sliding lace. The aroma is of caramel malt, fresh hops and pears. Sweet barley malt is almost oily slick. Full bitter tea-like and lightly citrus hops and berries. So creamy smooth rich and molasses-like sweet. Complex and pleasing from beginning to end. This is a low ABV Winter Warmer and barely fits the style, but it IS very tasty!

Samuel Smith’s Winter Welcome Ale – Tadcaster, England – 6% ABV

Winter Welcome is one of England's best representations of the winter brew styles. Full bodied (almost syrupy). This ale is so velvetty smooth and well rounded, it’s difficult not to guzzle it down. Good thing for the large bottles! The tea-like hops with a hint of citrus bitterness are noticeable early in the glass, but sort of fades under the rich malt, but that's cool, this is a quality malt, cherry sweet, roasted especially for the holidays.

New England

Smuttynose Winter Ale – Smuttynose Brewing – Portsmouth, NH – 5.1% ABV

12 oz. brown bottle. Freshness date stamped and etched.
Served in a standard pint glass.
This brew is listed as a Dubbel, but I think it fits very nicely in the Winter Warmer family.
It pours an orange-hued amber color with a medium-sized off-white head and loads of sticking lace.
The immediate smell that comes to mind is fruit cake. A whiff of malted milk balls follows, then a little citrusy and mixed fruit after that.
A tastes are in line with the aromas if you allow for a fairly strong taste of buttery caramel.
Speaking of buttery, the mouthfeel is slick and velvety.
You can really down these beat feet fast!

I would welcome a semi-Imperial version of this brew. Maybe something in the 6-6.5% range. Just a thought...

Geary’s Winter Ale – DL Geary’s Brewing – Portland, Maine – 6% ABV

No freshness date. It pours a nice clear amber with a fast fading soft white head and minimal lacing. The aroma is an even mix of doughy malt and floral hops.

Sweet caramel and fresh bread comes through in the malt. A good herbal quality lasts throughout.

There are grapefruity, light tea-like and some lemony sour bitterness, tempered by a bit of sweetness.

A faint taste of tart green apples is noticed.

I think Geary's may want to rename a few of their styles. This should be a mild Winter IPA and Geary's Hampshire Special (though now a year-round brew) should be their Winter style...IMHO.

Must try

Jubilale – Deschutes Brewery – Bend, Oregon – 6.7% ABV

Full Sail Wassail – Full Sail Brewing - Hood River, Oregon – 7% ABV

Bring on the cold weather! And Cheers!

Quote: “He that drinketh strong beer and goes to bed right mellow, lives as he ought to live and dies a hearty fellow” - Anonymous