Beer style of the week; American Barleywines

Week 50

Last week, in the midst of a raging blizzard, it was the perfect time for English Barleywines. In keeping with the theme of warming beers to take on the nasty effects of winter, we bring you American Barleywines. As you might imagine, the American take on the style is brasher, bolder, spicier, hoppier and of course, less refined. That said, there are many English-style Barleywines brewed in the US (and elsewhere) and American-style Barleywines that fit into, or cross over both style ranges. For this article (and last week’s), for the most part, I will try to simply take the brewers at their word, or go with what the style is listed as in BeerAdvocate.com and/or RateBeer.com.

As written last week; Barleywine is a misleading name. It’s not in any way, shape or form in the wine family. It does, however, possess wine-like strength; from between 9% and 13% ABV. Sometimes you will find a Barleywine aged in Sherry or Port barrels (these are generally worth seeking out!).Deep colored, full bodied, with varying degrees of fruitiness in the aroma and taste, citrus and/or resinous hop bitterness with noticeable sweetness are common to the style. A potent alcoholic kick is a certainty. There are some beers listed as Barleywine that weigh in at fewer than 9% ABV, but they are probably more suited to the Old Ale or Strong English Ale family. Barleywines should be very strong ales!

Wonderfully warming American Barleywines

West Coast

Bigfoot Barleywine-style Ale - Sierra Nevada Brewing – Chico, California – 9.6% ABV

2004 bottle, reviewed in 2005

It pours a lovely sun burnt orange amber with a smallish but fairly long-lasting beige head.

Potent floral hop aromas burst out of the glass while pouring. A smell of spruce, malt and alcohol blend in.

Caramel and candy sugar sweetness are easily noticed. Doughy bread, rum-soaked raisins and a light taste of herbs begin to emerge, though settled in the background.

Sharp grapefruit, lemon zest and a bit of a metallic bite provide quite a bite. The piney esters of whole fresh hops and the big alcohol kick remain quite separate from the other tastes, which begin to mingle halfway through the glass. Bigfoot is an original Northwest American-style Barleywine. I hope that just because something else more extreme flavor-wise, or more potent in the ABV department comes along, doesn't relegate this wonderful brew to the back shelf. Long live the legend of Bigfoot!

Mid Coast (It’s near Lake Michigan)

Third Coast Old Ale – Bell’s Brewery – Kalamazoo, Michigan – 10.2% ABV

12oz brown bottle. No freshness date.

It pours a unique dark and cloudy pine pitch amber. A fast fading beige head leave behind trails of spotty and patchy lace.

A fresh-cut piney smell fades into an authentic Old Ale sweet malty aroma of perfumy hop and alcohol.

This brew almost begs you to cellar it. And now that it's open, I know why...damn!

Sweet toffee and bready malt flavors blend with candy sugar, a light taste of prunes and dark sipping rum.

Potent and edgy whole hop taste reveals a sharp white grapefruit bitterness. A hint of black pepper and faint salty taste act as the perfect compliment. Throughout this rating process, I've adjusted my numerical values several times. It's a beer that deserves a long time to age. And if you're unwilling to age it, at least take the time to review it slowly.

East Coast

Flying Mouflan – Troegs Brewing Co. – Hershey, Pennsylvania – 9.3% ABV

22 oz. brown bottle. No freshness date.

The color is deep, dark amber/mahogany. A very fast-fading caramel head becomes a thin ring.

A big whiff of rum-soaked plums hits with a bang. Caramel malt, citrusy and floral hop smells are present throughout. A light smell of milk chocolate is noticed.

Flavors of a mixed fruit bowl drenched in dark rum and port wine come to mind. Prunes, raisins, pears, tangerine and pineapple, with a hint of banana. Does this count for my daily fruit intake? The citrusy hops poke through, as does a nice rich malty taste. Sweet caramel adds the right balance to the bold flavors.

As the label suggests, I will cellar one and see how things transform in a year. If I can wait that long.

2011 Blunderbuss Barleywine – Aged in Port & Sherry Barrels – Cambridge Brewing Co. Cambridge, Massachusetts – 13% ABV - Served in a snifter.

It pours a hazy tannish golden color with a thin beige head that was fading as the waitress carried it from the tap to the table.

Smells of ripe fruit and sherry rise to greet the nose at once. Mixed aromas of vanilla, fruit cake, figs, burnt caramel, along with whiffs of amber rum drift in and out. I'm almost afraid if I drink it too fast, I'll lose the wonderful and complex smells.

The flavors are as inviting and complex as the aromas. The rich and creamy body carries flavors of rum cake, crème Brule, figs, sweet berries, mild citrus, soft herbs, and sherry.

If you’re in need of a self-indulgent, decadent Barleywine to pleasure your mind, body and soul, this is the one!

Amazing!

Next week; Baltic and/or Imperial Porters

Cheers!

Quote: "Brewers enjoy working to make beer as much as drinking beer instead of working."
-Harold Rudolph

Beer style of the week; The 12 Beers of Christmas, (but Great any time)

12th Day of Christmas (Including Christmas Day there are 13 Days of Christmas)

For the past 3 weeks we have merrily ventured through the kingdoms of Christmas Ales and enchanted Winter Warmer wonderlands. We bring you a sampling of diverse beers from around the world that are purely divine by nature. These are the splendid spirit-lifting brews to enjoy with family and friends as we celebrate this special time of year.

Some of these delightful beers are found in weeks past and in week’s future, others will be making a cameo appearance because of their special connection to the season. They come in all styles, varieties, and strengths. All are very good!

Day 1 – Sinebrychoff Porter

Day 2 – Geary’s Hampshire Special

Day 3 - Hooker Liberator

Day 4 – Trappiste Rochefort 10

Day 5 - Baden Baden – Red Ale (Double Red)

Day 6 - Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout

Day 7 - Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock

Day 8 – DueS (Brut Des Flandres

Day 9 - Schlafly Reserve Imperial Stout Bourbon Barrel 2008 Vintage

Day 10 - Traquair Jacobite

Day 11 – Rigor Mortis ABT

Day 12 – Thomas Hardy’s Ale - O’Hanlon’s Brewing – Lawrence, England – 11.5% ABV

8.5oz brown bottle. 2003 No. 001484 Poured at 52F into a Gouden Carolus D'or glass.

It pours an orange-hued dark teaky amber with a small off-white head along with small bubbles, which cling to the bottom of the glass..

Smells of toffee, oak, malt and rum dominate. A light whiff of hops follow.

As immature as the brew is, it displays an aged and mature character of flavors. Caramel malt, honey and taste of milk chocolate are quite upfront. A hint of sherry-soaked oak rolls forward.

Sweet lemon bitterness and orange zest tartness add a near perfect balance to the malty sweetness. Now, the sad news…they no longer brew this Old Ale. 2008 was the last year, so find some if you can…and please let me know where you found it!

Cheers! And a very Happy Little Christmas!

Quote: “The high and mighty town’s ale I did drink there, It made my brains to caper and career, It was of such strong and magnificent force, To knock me in five miles, twice from my horse.” – John Taylor – 1580 – 1653 - from ‘The Bard of Beer’.

Beer style of the week; Old Ale

Week 39

Oh boy, where to begin…While “Old Ale” is indeed a specific beer style, there are various interpretations and theories about what the style actually is and where it originated. Some say its origins are tied to “Stock Ales”, an aged sharper, stronger version of a Mild Ale. Barkeeps in the 1800s are said to have added portions of strong “Old Ale” to a fresh Mild Ale, creating a hybrid custom-tailored ale to the customer’s liking. Another theory, keeping more in line with modern brewing, claim that the style is created by adding aged ale (with living yeast) to a Stock Ale in the secondary fermentation. The result is a full (not heavy) body. It’s a stronger, darker, somewhat fruity, tarter, and sometimes slightly more acidic and/or sour ale. The smell and distant taste of green hard wood is not uncommon to the style.

Many Old Ales today, are barrel-aged in Scotch or other hard liquor wooden vessels. The alcohol by volume (ABV) levels varies greatly within the Old Ale style range (from 4% - 13% ABV). In recent years some brewers have taken liberty with the style’s name and have created super strong ales that probably are more related to Barley Wines or American or English Strong Ales. Some might argue there is no difference between a Barley Wine and an Old Ale, and they would be wrong. The part about adding a living aged ale to a Stock Ale in the fermentation gives it its unique style.

This week we’ll try to focus on winter-warming ales of 5.7% ABV and up that have maintained the basic Old Ale characteristics listed above.

From the land of origin

Theakston Old Peculiar – TR Theakston LTD – Yorkshire, England – 5.7% ABV

Served in a nonic tumbler. This root beer colored beauty maintains a full beige head and a bit of trailing lace. The aroma is malty and tea-like. The rich malt has a caramel sweetness. Sharp citrus bitterness and tea-like hops are in abundance. The rich independent flavors begin the meld towards the end of the glass. Creamy and nearly oily, this brew goes down with a nice velvety smoothness.

Fuller Vintage Ale – Fuller, Smith and Turner PLC – London, England – 8.5% ABV

I drank the 2010 over the holidays last year and swore to myself I would wait a full year until popping this one open...oh well. It pours a lovely orange-tinted amber with a small but lasting beige head on top and small trails of sticky lace.

Creamy caramel, hops, cut hay and a near perfect rummy alcohol aroma lasts a fair amount of time.

The full and rich malt body has flavors of toffee and rum cake. The hops are in abundance! Citrus and tea-like bitterness are quite noticeable. A slight metallic background adds a welcome additional edginess. The warming alcohol is in total harmony.

The mouthfeel has an almost perfect extra virgin olive oil and buttery finish to it.

It's velvety smooth, with a decadent richness one comes to associate and compare to a fine sherry.

Gale’s Prize Old Ale – George Gale & Co. LTD – Hampshire, England – 9% ABV

2005 This one pours a muddy old leather color with just a few medium-sized bubbles floating on top. No lace.

A sherry-like aroma is noticed as it’s being poured. A sweet malt and light alcohol smell follows. Just a faint smell of spent motor oil (is it my imagination?) can be detected with some concentration. A light smell and taste of maple syrup emerges.

A fairly sweet malt body releases tastes of pears, figs, brown bread, and again, sherry. A faint woody aroma lasts throughout.

A mild lemony bitterness and a taste of strong tea come together quite nicely. A taste of wild tart berries peek through as it warms, as does a dose a caramel sweetness.

I feel this brew may be a year or two past its prime as I’m finding the structure of the body seems to be wearing down. A somewhat salty flavor begins to intrude and the flavors and tastes are separating instead of blending harmoniously. This is probably the classic representation of all Old Ales.

West Coast Classic

Old Stock Ale – North Coast Brewing – Fort Bragg, California – 11.7% ABV

My, my this is a potent brew!

It pours an old, worn leathery brown with a thin beige head. A sweet toffee aroma and big warming alcohol fuminess is quite noticeable throughout the glass. A light citrus and mild coffee aroma are also constantly in the background. Pronounced toffee, coffee with cream and milk chocolate blend nicely with grapefruit and lemon zest bitterness. Flavors of pear brandy and a peppery spiciness mingle within the woody alcoholic and creamy bodied compound. This is a beautifully crafted beer in the "extreme" class.

New England

Ipswich Winter Ale – Mercury Brewing Co. Ipswich, Massachusetts – 6.2% ABV

It pours a cloudy honey amber with a fast fading off-white head. A big whiff of fresh hops followed by sweet malt fades in a matter of seconds. Not as malty as many winter brews, but slightly maltier than pale ales. Lightly sweet caramel and biscuity. Highly hopped with a sharp, edged citrus bitterness and slight metallic bite. A lightly fruity and orange zest taste is revealed as the glass warms. A touch of warming alcohol finishes.

Mayflower Thanksgiving Ale – Mayflower Brewing – Plymouth, Massachusetts

Served in a nonic tumbler at BBC Pembroke.
Pours an orange-hued walnut color with a firm 1" beige head, along with loads of lacing.
Smells of sour dough and rye bread blend with a deep aroma of dried malt. Citrusy and resinous hops follow, as does some spruce notes. A light warming rum alcohol fuminess pulls through.
The flavors mirror the aromas in every way. Flavors of fruit cup soaked in vodka come to mind. A mild sour tartness inches through in the background.
This reminds me of Fuller's Vintage Ale, one of my favorite Old Ales. A side by side tasting will be interesting.

Must Try

Ola Dubh Special Reserve 16 – Harviestoun Brewery – Alva, Scotland – 8% ABV

Good Old Ales go very well with strong cheeses, hard salamis, a low-flamed fireplace and happily sleeping pet…or wife at your side.

Cheers!

Quote: “For a quart of ale is a dish for a king" - William Shakespeare ‘A Winter’s Tale’