Beer Style of the Week - Doppelbock (Double Bock)

Week 14

We played a silly game as a kid called, ‘Buck Buck how many fingers do I have up?’ The details of the game escape me now, but that’s not the point. I’m “researching” new game for silly adults called ‘Bock Bock, How many fingers am I holding up?’ After each player downs a six pack of Doppelbock, the player who best remembers what game they are playing, hollers, “Bock, Bock how many fingers am I holding up?”– The answer is always, “I’ll let you know when the room stops spinning.”

So, the point is; avoid playing any Bock Bock games and do not drink a sixer of Double Bock then attempt to count fingers.

The Bock (Billy Goat in German) style was originally brewed as an ale from an area surrounding Einbeck, Germany. A bigger, stronger Bock, the Doppelbock, evolved as the head-butting beer of the lager family.

Traditional Doppelbocks are malty, sweet, lightly to moderately hopped and fairly strong in alcohol by volume (from around 7.0% - 11.5% ABV). The color ranges from a teaky light amber/brown to ruby-hued mahogany. The off-white to beige head should be rich and creamy, though in the higher ABV versions, the head will dissipate rather quickly. The aroma is malt focused with noticeable whiffs of alcohol present. Citrus and fruity notes may be in the background. The body is slick and full, but not necessarily heavy. Monks who must forego solid foods during fasting sessions have used the Doppel Bock as “Liquid Bread”. Speaking of food, Doppelbocks go well with a wide variety of menus. Try pairing with creamy cheeses and sausages, or duck with rich berry sauces, or mixed grilled meats. Wake up your vanilla ice cream by adding a little strong Doppelbock!

Germany (land of Origin)

Ayinger Celebrator – Aying, Germany – 6.7% ABV (A mild version of the style)

It pours a tar black with a smallish beige head and a bit of sticky lace. Aromas of dark chocolate, licorice, coffee and slight alcohol fuminess lasts a god long time. A heavy, almost oily malt body is home to many rich flavors and tastes. Strong coffee, chocolate and fresh rye bread-like tastes are upfront. Tastes of licorice, orange zest, toffee and nice alcohol finish get together very nicely. As it warms a taste of prunes develops. This is one satisfying brew!

Paulaner Salvator – Munich, Germany – 7.9% ABV

It pours a deep red amber with a full beige head.

A full sweet malt and lightly smoky smell mix with a fruity and slightly perfumy scent.

The biscuity malt is thick and rich, with caramel sweetness and chock full of nuts.

It's abundantly hopped. Lots of citrus notes with just a touch of a metallic tang.

The well-hidden alcohol effect comes on as a sensation before you know it.

This is a robust and complex brew!

Austria (The Biggest Doppelbock out there!)

Brauerie Schloss Eggenberg - Samichlaus (Santa Claus) – Vorchdorf, Austria – 14% ABV

The World’s Most Extraordinary Beer. Bottled 2002. Sampled in 2004.

This Rare Malt Liquor is dark maple in color with a fast fading beige head. The aroma is rummy and malty with a faint trace of hops sneaking through. The full sweet malt houses highly hopped citrus bitterness. Dark rum flavors mingle with strong honey and light lemony taste. Strongly Alcoholic at 14%) abv. But, it slides easily and dangerously down.

One of my favorite liqueurs or sherries.

Italy

Moretti - La Rossa Birra Doppio Malto (Don’t you just love saying, Doppio Malto??!!!??) 7.2% ABV

This uniquely styled Doppelbock pours a dark rusty color with firm beige head. A big sweet malty aroma offers a bit of damp hay and hop background a bit of alcohol is noticed upon opening. The heavy sweet malt (think 10/40 weight motor oil) is the focus of this brew. Flavors of fresh baked bread and sweet caramel flood the mouth and soothingly bathe the throat. A lemony lime sour bitterness mixed with a faint apple taste delivers a little hard cider-like flavor. The alcohol is noticeable, but not overpowering.

Mama Mia!!! Chio Bella!!!

New England Representations

Thomas Hooker – Liberator Doppel Bock – Bloomfield, Connecticut – 8% ABV

16.9oz dark brown swing top bottle.

It pours a very dark and deep ruby-hued mahogany color with a fast-fading beige head, along with thin scattered patches of lacing.

It smells like a malt monster with big whiffs of caramel and damp hay accompanied by notes of dried barley and leather.

Tastes of burnt crème brulee, sweet caramel, Ovaltine, milk chocolate, tobacco and leather are all quite upfront and noticeable. A slight background taste of prune juice is detected in the background.

A mellow Myers Lemony tartness provides some contrast to the big, bold malty body, as does a dose of a metallic bite. Though make no mistake, this brew is all about the malt structure with well-applied hop reminders.

Lovely Stuff!

Samuel Adams – Imperial Series Double Bock – 9.5% ABV

12oz brown bottle. Date etched on side label.

It pours a ruby-hued teakish color with a nice thick yellow-tinged beige head and a fair amount of lacing.

The aroma is mostly of sweet malt, with a noticeable whiff of horse barn.

Man, this is one malty brew! Remember Ovaltine? There's a resemblance here.

Notes of milk chocolate and doughy buttered bread come to mind. A bit of honey and molasses add to the sweet sensation

Although there is plenty of raw and edgy resinous hop bitterness, their impact is tempered by the full powerful body of malt.

A taste of golden rum enters the picture and flitters around the peripherals of the all mighty maltiness and vies for attention with its equally dominated hop sibling.

Yeah, Sam Adams is a big brewer, but that doesn’t mean they don’t still brew good, or even excellent beers. This is one really fine brew!

Fisherman’s Navigator – Cape Ann Brewing – Gloucester, MA – 7% ABV

Served in a 20oz tall mug.

Pours a tannish amber color with a 1” tannish beige head and a fair amount of webby lacing.

Smells of grainy barn malt, sweet cereal and a bit of resinous malt mingle together well.

The taste is layered with sweet caramel maltiness and a light dose of resiny and metallic hop bitterness. A faint taste of dark tea edges forward. A warming alcohol is noticed upon exhale late.

The body is a bit on the light side for the style, but is very gulpable!

According to an article in Wikipedia, there are over 200 “ators” registered for the dopplebock style in the German patent office.

Quote: “It’s extraordinary how friendly you can make a lot of people on a couple bottles of beer” –

Baron Frankenstein – “Frankenstein”

Beer Style of the Week - Blonde or Golden Ale

In honor of all you mothers and/or those of you who have or have had a mother. Most mothers have been blonde at least sometime in their life. Right? If so, this style is for you/them.

The Golden or Blonde Ale is as the name implies, pale blonde or gold in color. Unfiltered Blondes tend to be a bit cloudy. The head in most cases is snow white to light beige.

The aroma and flavor profiles vary widely from country to country. Belgian and Netherland Blondes can be fairly potent with a whiff of alcohol upfront an edgy hop and spice-forward smell and taste. Those from France tend to be a bit more subdued and somewhat balanced (think Amber Ale). The UK Goldens tend to be drier (think Saltine Cracker dry) and lower in alcohol than their European counterparts. One thing Blondes have in common is a subdued fruitiness in aroma and taste. As can be expected, the US versions disregard any profile stamp and are a mixed bag.

Belgian Blondes

Brewery Lefebvre - Hopus Ale Quenast, Belgium 8.3% abv
11.2oz stubby brown flip top bottle. Best before date stamped on back label. Served in Kapittel Watou stemmed snifter.
Pours a cloudy caramel toffee color with a fluffy white head and loads of sticky, clinging lace.
The smell is a little disjointed with sour yeast, dry hay, horse barn, oak, floral hops and gin.
The flavors are rangy as well, but with more complimentary results. Edgy astringent hops, lemon zest, gin, orange peel and Orange Lifesavers. A little metallic tang is noticed in the finish.
The mouthfeel is a little raspy at the first few gulps but mellows out as it warms.
For some reason, I feel this tart and bitter brew will go nicely with lemon tarts or bitter pineapple upside down cake.

Affligem Blonde Affligem Brewery – Opwijk, Belgium 6.8 ABV

11.2 oz. Thin brown bottle. Produced on date on back label.

Pours a dirty blonde with a beige head and trails of patchy lacing.

Smells of barn grain and fruity citrus are quite noticeable. A light whiff of white rum floats in.

Sweet caramel and a pear-like fruitiness ride a fairly solid malty body. Citrus and peppery spice notes balance things nicely. A bit of warming alcoholic slides in and out.

The finish is clean, yet the spiciness lingers.

A good beer to pair with rustic chicken dishes.

French Blonde

Jenlain Blonde (Biere de Garde, Blonde) Jenlain, France – 7.5% ABV

11.2oz brown bottle. Freshness date noted on label. Served in an Allagash tulip glass.

It pours a yellow golden color with a good sized white head and some patchy lacing.
A sweet, biscuity malty smell rises at first pour. Floral and resinous hop aromas drift in. A little mixed fruit cup and whiffs of alcohol are noticed.
Slightly citrus and edgy tea-like hop bitterness rests on a biscuity bed of malt. A little vodka-like alcoholic bite sneaks in midway through a lasts throughout, especially in the breath.

This Blonde is a bit sweeter and bit richer in body than I expected. And it’s a fairly potent brew for the style, but overall a nice, easy-to-gulp brew.

UK Blonde

Harviestoun Brewery - Bitter and Twisted - Scotland - 4.2% abv
From a review in 2003
A real treat to find this at the NERAX 2003! Bright golden in color with medium-sized bubbles and a fast fading head. The lace is thin, but a little sticky. The hoppy aroma is slightly mellowed by hints of lightly roasted malt. Sharp, citrusy bitterness with an edgy aggressiveness. Mellows, sweetens and balances out toward the end of the glass. Very gulpable!

New England

Mayflower Brewing Golden Ale - Plymouth, MA - 4.7% ABV
12 oz. dark brown bottle. Pkg. date stamped on label.
Served in a Sam Adams fluted glass.
A firm 2" snow-white head floats upon a pale clear golden body. Wispy trails of webby lace rim the glass.
The smell is grassy, with a mix of dry malt and dried fruit.
Tastes of edgy metallic and tea-like hops are forward. The lightly roasted malt has a vague sweetness and wheat cracker taste.
It's a tad bit overly dry, but true to the style, so can't fault it there. Nice session brew!

Rapscallion Premier – Holyoke, MA – 7% ABV

On tap. Served in a tulip glass.

It pours an amber-hued golden color, with a fluffy, off-white head.

A mild dry grainy smell is upfront. A light blend of sweet candy, fruit cup, with a dose of citrus and resins roam around. A whiff of white rum fades in and out.

This Golden is a bit sweet for the style, yet it’s a pleasing sweetness. Bready, grassy and caramel malts carry hints of citrus and fruit cup, along with some warming alcohol. A faint taste of ripe banana and spices peek through.

The body lacks in dryness and is a bit full and rounded for the style.

It’s a good beer to pair with a wide variety of cheeses and salamis, or vanilla-based desserts.

Cheers and Salut!

Quote: “ Ere’s to English women an’ a quart of English beer”. – Rudyard Kipling

In Beer Retail - Small Things Come in Small Packies

We’ve all seen the ads for the Giant Super Beer Inventories at the Mega-Super-sized Liquor Stores.

Full Page ads stating things like; “Check out our 4,000 ADD-inducing Beers from around the World!!!!”

Or, “We Got Twenty Aisles Full of Beer – Foreign and Domestic, some from places even NASA can’t identify!”

Or, “We’ve got enough beer to create a foamy sea large enough to sail the US 7^th Fleet upon!!”

It is impressive, no doubt! But, it can also be a bit overwhelming and, for the most part, an impersonal and confusing experience. Row upon row, aisle after aisle. So many beers, so small a liver!

Now there are some occasions when it’s actually fun to drive the twenty or thirty miles, grab a basket at the entrance to the Super Mega Beer store and peruse the endless array of beers. Hmmm, I’ll take one of those and one of these, and two of that, and oh, wait I need to try that one, and so on, until your forearm begins to cramp and you go for one of the over-sized shopping carts found in every one of these stores.

Thirty beers later and you realize you haven’t made the slightest dent in their inventory, but have made a giant impact upon your wallet. So you trudge your way through the smoky haze to the checkout counter and patiently wait in line. (BTW- how is it possible that all of these mega-stores have cigarette smoke pluming down the aisle from the warehouse? Is it mandatory for someone to be smoking at all times?).

Finally, at the checkout counter, the clerk who looks as though she just escaped from a maximum security institution, only not as personable-looking, begins scanning your selections, but only half are readable by the barcode scanner. She glares at you as does the line of customers piling up behind you. She sends Scruffy, the store nitwit to go find a price for your Dominus Vobiscum Brut. “Huh?” grunts the clerk. “Says here it’s made in Canada. Why don’tcha just buy a case of Molson instead?” And on and on it goes until all your selections have been tallied and your pockets emptied.

Finally, safe at home, bottles sorted and cellared, the anticipation mounts as you plan to pair your new found Les Frères De La Bière / Thiriez XXtra (Saison) with some fresh picked mussels. Hmmm, even better, steam the mussels in the beer with a little garlic, butter and shallots! Oh Boy! Finally, you pop the cork and…who farted? You look around. You’re alone in the room. You sniff the mussels. Fine. You sniff the beer. Not so fine. You check the date on the bottle. The date has faded off. It has probably sat on a shelf since the Carter Administration. So sad.

Enter the small local beer packie. Two to three beer aisles, tops! Logically laid out displays. Varied enough assortments and most importantly a knowledgeable person to ask questions of or to provide recommendations to. One such place, A Taste for Wine and Spirits in Cohasset, MA embodies the best attributes of the Small Local Beer Packie. Proprietor Manager Bruce Sinclaire greets you by name with a genuine smile as you enter. You drop off your empties in the back room. It doesn’t matter whether or not you purchased those beers at his place. He accepts them and gives you credit for having cleaned and counted them. None of those highly inefficient bottle and can return machines that we find crunching away in the Mega-Super Store, which fail to read the barcodes most of the time (even if you purchased them in that very store). Oh boy, 15 cents back on my 35 returns!

Bruce is a wine guy (try not to hold that against him). He’s the sommelier of the store, but he’s a very willing, fast-learning student of beer. Like every small packie with a deep and abiding respect for beer, A Taste for Wine and Spirits employs a go to beer expert, Mark McGuinness in this case, to make sure there are plenty of great beers on the shelves, displayed in an attractive and easy to navigate manner. Bruce has a cleaver gradient color scheme painted on the walls leading customers naturally to their wine preferences. Whites to the left, reds to the right. Lightest, to darkest. Simple, yet refined! Then, right down the middle…Beer!

What the small beer store lacks in the quantity of beer, they make up in the quality of their selections. Part of that quality control requires the rotation of stock, making sure the customer is satisfied after they leave the store. Friendly, caring service, good fresh beer, convenient…What a novel approach!

Let’s take a visit to a Small Local Packie, south of Boston in the town of Hingham, MA.

Ralph’s Derby Street Liquors located within the upscale Derby Street Shoppes (the spelling, “Shoppe” alerts you to the fact it’s boutiqueish) fits all the criteria of a great Small Local Packie. Owner, Sommelier Ralph Hersom has traversed the wine world in impressive fashion from San Francisco and Napa, to owning an upscale sister store in New York. He brings his experience, for not only wine, but also for high-end liquors such as single malt scotch, bourbons, rums and tequilas.

Knowing a good thing when he sees it, he has Beer “Guru”, Ryan O’Malley managing the smallish, yet excellent beer selections. Both Ralph and Ryan share in their customer’s enthusiasm for fine adult beverages. It’s always a pleasurable experience walking through the doors into a well thought out and well-laid out store. It sets the tone for a pleasant purchasing experience. Friday evenings are reserved for beer tastings, and Ryan helps guide you through the samplings in a knowledgeable and friendly way. Lighter, milder beer first and on up through the bigger, full-flavored brews. Ryan knows beer and he knows his store’s demographic. Many of the high-end beers from Belgium, UK, West Coast, East Coast and New England areas are right here. What a treat! There are also enough fine local selections to keep my interest and budget in order.

Visit A Taste for Wine and Spirits at 380 Chief Justice Cushing Highway (Route 3A) in Cohasset or call 781-383-0059. Beer and/or wine tastings are offered on Friday evenings. Nice food pairing samples and advice are offered as well.

Ralph’s Derby Street Wine and Spirits 94 Derby Street Hingham, MA 781-749-WINE – www.derbystreetwine.com

If you enjoy pleasant, stress-free beer shopping experiences, you need to continue to support your local packie. Please let our readers know about your favorite(s) Small Beer-respecting Packie. Spread the good word!

Cheers!

Quote: “He that buys land buys many stones,

He that buys flesh buys many bones,

He that buys eggs buys many shells,

But he that buys ale buys nothing else”. – English Medieval song

Pretty Things Beer and Ale Project - Once Upon a Time

Once a Upon a Time- December 6th, 1855 - East India Porter.
An olde beer style is revived from a recipe for Porter dated December 6, 1855.
This video shows clips from the Boston Launch Party at Deep Ellum in Allston, MA

Beer Style of the Week - Porter (In honour of the Royal Wedding)

Week 12

We did just brush upon Porters in our profile, a few months back about the Stout style of beer that sort of migrated into its own unique style during the mid-1800’s. For those of you who missed it, here’s the brief history of the Porter style;

The dark Porter was a beer that was popular amongst the river and street porters of London in the early 1700s. The Porter style, as written in some publications was originally a blend of what was named, the Three Threads. This was a blend of ale, old ale and a potent beer called Twopenny (the cost per quart). Sometimes Porter was referred to by the name “Entire Butt”, based upon it having all the blends together in one beer. An aged, stronger Three Threads blend became known as Stout Porter, and in time, shortened to “stout”. In many circles of the day, the name porter and stout became interchangeable. Many Porters today have drifted into the lager family of beers, while stouts remain loyal to the ale family in which they were born and bred.

English Porters true to the style can be a fairly complex beer, with toasty Pale, Crystal, Chocolate and or Brown (sometimes smoked brown) barley malts that display tastes of chocolate, rye toast and strong coffee. There can be a fair amount of bitterness, but it’s usually a pretty balanced beer. A slightly astringent or tart fruit taste can be added via the yeast strains and/or by adding live bacteria to the brew process. The sweetness level is normally subdued yet varied with tastes of licorice, molasses or honey. Some brewers add real chocolate or Coffee during the brew process to accentuate stronger flavors. True Porters range in ABV from around 4.2% ABV on the low end to 6.2% on the high end. Baltic, Robust or Imperial Porters are a subject unto themselves and will be profiled in early winter when that style is more in season.

Jolly Olde England and Surrounding Isles

Fuller’s London Porter

12oz dark brown bottle. Freshness date on back label.

Pours a roofing tar/brown-tinged black with a tan fast-fading head.

The aroma of fresh-brewed coffee billows out. Smells of toasted brown bread and dark roasted malt are lasting.

Flavors of deep roasted barley malt, rich coffee and dark chocolate flow together in the full creamy body.

The ample hop bitterness has a tea-like, and light citrus bitterness.

A nice, easy to drink Porter that tastes more potent than its listed 5.4% abv. Decadent!

St. Peter’s Old-Style Porter – Bungay, Suffolk, UK – 5.1% ABV

Nice olive green flask-style bottle. It pours a red tinged dark chocolate color. The beige head of various sized bubbles fades to a constantly thin-rimmed coating. I enjoy the coffee and chocolate aroma. The whiff of malt, light smoke, burnt caramel and hops are present as well. Chocolate malt with sweet caramel and mild coffee mingle quite nicely. A pleasant citrus bitterness and light taste of plums provide some balance. Nice Porter!

Finland

Huvila Porter – Malmgard, Finland – 5.5% ABV

16.9oz dark brown bottle. Freshness date on label. Served in a nonic pint glass.

A pitch black liquid rests beneath a thick foamy tannish head, with loads of sticky lacing.

A smell of strong coffee rises at first pour, followed by smells of dark chocolate, licorice and floral hops.

The flavor profiles mirror the aromas, almost to a tee. Speaking of tee, I mean Tea. A taste of strong black tea edges forward, as does a slightly citrusy bitterness.

The body is thinner than it appears, but this is normal for the style, so no harm done.

This is a very gulpable brew!

New England Porters

Samuel Adams Holiday Porter – Boston, MA – 5.8% ABV

12oz brown bottle. Freshness date etched into side of label.

It pours a roofing tar color with a beige/tan head that fades to a thin permanent coating.

The aroma of strong coffee leaps out. A smell of bitter chocolate vies for attention as does a whiff of dry dark roasted malt.

Toasty malt flavors are supported by tastes of strong coffee and dark chocolate.

This brew is fairly hoppy for the style. A bitter resinous hop taste mingles with a dry hop and peppery spiciness.

I wonder why this brew isn't offered in its own 6 pack and/or on draught.

Geary’s London Style Porter – Portland, Maine – 4.2% ABV

Its pours an almost pitch black with a thin beige head on top. Aromas of smoky campfire wood (the next day), malt and light floral hop bouquet are right in line with the style. The malt taste is akin to blackened toast, strong coffee and bitter chocolate. The hops have that unmistakable Geary's raw and wild bitterness. A citrus peel and light metallic bite add a nice edgy character to the brew. This Porter could use a dose of sweetness and the body is a bit thin, but I wouldn't hesitate to try it again...and again.

Berkshire Brewing – Coffeehouse Porter – Deerfield, MA. 6.2% ABV

Sampled LOTS of this at the source. Pours...you guessed it; black coffee with a light tan head and some sticky lace. The aroma is, of course, mostly coffee, with some malt and hops. A substantial caramel sweet malt body and abundantly hopped with fairly sharp spicy and mild citrus bitterness. Chocolate notes and a hint of camphor astringency. It borders on a Robust Porter, but I thought you should have a better idea of the possibilities this style can go into. This is a highly gulpable brew!

Worth mentioning is the Otter Creek Stovepipe Porter from Vermont and Newport Storm Blizzard Porter from Rhode Island. Both tasty beers in their own right!

Don’t fear the dark Porter! It really is an approachable beer. Very fluid and toasty and roasty! Flavorful, but not overly so. Great with a variety of cheeses and salamis or grilled meats and veggies. It also pairs nicely with vanilla ice cream or rich, creamy caramel-based puddings.

God save the Queen! God save our Porters!

Quote: “And what this flood of deeper brown,

Which a white foam does also crown,

Less white than snow,

More white than mortar?

Oh, my soul! Can this be Porter?” – The Dejeune