Beer style of the week; Old Ale

Week 39

Oh boy, where to begin…While “Old Ale” is indeed a specific beer style, there are various interpretations and theories about what the style actually is and where it originated. Some say its origins are tied to “Stock Ales”, an aged sharper, stronger version of a Mild Ale. Barkeeps in the 1800s are said to have added portions of strong “Old Ale” to a fresh Mild Ale, creating a hybrid custom-tailored ale to the customer’s liking. Another theory, keeping more in line with modern brewing, claim that the style is created by adding aged ale (with living yeast) to a Stock Ale in the secondary fermentation. The result is a full (not heavy) body. It’s a stronger, darker, somewhat fruity, tarter, and sometimes slightly more acidic and/or sour ale. The smell and distant taste of green hard wood is not uncommon to the style.

Many Old Ales today, are barrel-aged in Scotch or other hard liquor wooden vessels. The alcohol by volume (ABV) levels varies greatly within the Old Ale style range (from 4% - 13% ABV). In recent years some brewers have taken liberty with the style’s name and have created super strong ales that probably are more related to Barley Wines or American or English Strong Ales. Some might argue there is no difference between a Barley Wine and an Old Ale, and they would be wrong. The part about adding a living aged ale to a Stock Ale in the fermentation gives it its unique style.

This week we’ll try to focus on winter-warming ales of 5.7% ABV and up that have maintained the basic Old Ale characteristics listed above.

From the land of origin

Theakston Old Peculiar – TR Theakston LTD – Yorkshire, England – 5.7% ABV

Served in a nonic tumbler. This root beer colored beauty maintains a full beige head and a bit of trailing lace. The aroma is malty and tea-like. The rich malt has a caramel sweetness. Sharp citrus bitterness and tea-like hops are in abundance. The rich independent flavors begin the meld towards the end of the glass. Creamy and nearly oily, this brew goes down with a nice velvety smoothness.

Fuller Vintage Ale – Fuller, Smith and Turner PLC – London, England – 8.5% ABV

I drank the 2010 over the holidays last year and swore to myself I would wait a full year until popping this one open...oh well. It pours a lovely orange-tinted amber with a small but lasting beige head on top and small trails of sticky lace.

Creamy caramel, hops, cut hay and a near perfect rummy alcohol aroma lasts a fair amount of time.

The full and rich malt body has flavors of toffee and rum cake. The hops are in abundance! Citrus and tea-like bitterness are quite noticeable. A slight metallic background adds a welcome additional edginess. The warming alcohol is in total harmony.

The mouthfeel has an almost perfect extra virgin olive oil and buttery finish to it.

It's velvety smooth, with a decadent richness one comes to associate and compare to a fine sherry.

Gale’s Prize Old Ale – George Gale & Co. LTD – Hampshire, England – 9% ABV

2005 This one pours a muddy old leather color with just a few medium-sized bubbles floating on top. No lace.

A sherry-like aroma is noticed as it’s being poured. A sweet malt and light alcohol smell follows. Just a faint smell of spent motor oil (is it my imagination?) can be detected with some concentration. A light smell and taste of maple syrup emerges.

A fairly sweet malt body releases tastes of pears, figs, brown bread, and again, sherry. A faint woody aroma lasts throughout.

A mild lemony bitterness and a taste of strong tea come together quite nicely. A taste of wild tart berries peek through as it warms, as does a dose a caramel sweetness.

I feel this brew may be a year or two past its prime as I’m finding the structure of the body seems to be wearing down. A somewhat salty flavor begins to intrude and the flavors and tastes are separating instead of blending harmoniously. This is probably the classic representation of all Old Ales.

West Coast Classic

Old Stock Ale – North Coast Brewing – Fort Bragg, California – 11.7% ABV

My, my this is a potent brew!

It pours an old, worn leathery brown with a thin beige head. A sweet toffee aroma and big warming alcohol fuminess is quite noticeable throughout the glass. A light citrus and mild coffee aroma are also constantly in the background. Pronounced toffee, coffee with cream and milk chocolate blend nicely with grapefruit and lemon zest bitterness. Flavors of pear brandy and a peppery spiciness mingle within the woody alcoholic and creamy bodied compound. This is a beautifully crafted beer in the "extreme" class.

New England

Ipswich Winter Ale – Mercury Brewing Co. Ipswich, Massachusetts – 6.2% ABV

It pours a cloudy honey amber with a fast fading off-white head. A big whiff of fresh hops followed by sweet malt fades in a matter of seconds. Not as malty as many winter brews, but slightly maltier than pale ales. Lightly sweet caramel and biscuity. Highly hopped with a sharp, edged citrus bitterness and slight metallic bite. A lightly fruity and orange zest taste is revealed as the glass warms. A touch of warming alcohol finishes.

Mayflower Thanksgiving Ale – Mayflower Brewing – Plymouth, Massachusetts

Served in a nonic tumbler at BBC Pembroke.
Pours an orange-hued walnut color with a firm 1" beige head, along with loads of lacing.
Smells of sour dough and rye bread blend with a deep aroma of dried malt. Citrusy and resinous hops follow, as does some spruce notes. A light warming rum alcohol fuminess pulls through.
The flavors mirror the aromas in every way. Flavors of fruit cup soaked in vodka come to mind. A mild sour tartness inches through in the background.
This reminds me of Fuller's Vintage Ale, one of my favorite Old Ales. A side by side tasting will be interesting.

Must Try

Ola Dubh Special Reserve 16 – Harviestoun Brewery – Alva, Scotland – 8% ABV

Good Old Ales go very well with strong cheeses, hard salamis, a low-flamed fireplace and happily sleeping pet…or wife at your side.

Cheers!

Quote: “For a quart of ale is a dish for a king" - William Shakespeare ‘A Winter’s Tale’

Mayflower Brewing release party

Really enjoyed the Mayflower IPA on cask and Thanksgiving Ale on tap at BBC Pembroke last night. The Turkey Sliders were awesome. Goodness!

This Old New England Beer Examiner examines the new Old London Pubs IV

This Old New England Beer Examiner examines the new Old London Pubs IV

This is a series of my impressions of the very highest rated London Pubs according to CAMRA, Cask Marque, Time Out London and ViewLondon.com (along with some other very pleasant surprises along the way)

See part one for the criteria for a New Old Pub; http://www.examiner.com/beer-in-boston/this-old-new-england-beer-examiner-examines-the-new-old-london-pubs

Porterhouse – 21 Maiden Lane Covent Garden London

This 3 level Dublin-based pub is one of the largest boozers, area-wise, that I’ve had the pleasure to visit during my on-going London Pub Crawl series. It was awarded the CAMRA/English Heritage award for conversion to pub use in 2002.

Neatly tucked away on narrow Maiden Lane, you first come upon a large garden patio (smokers paradise) preceding the fancy pants double-door entrance. The doors lead to a dramatically vast interior anchored by an immense wooden L bar. It’s sort of like stepping inside a massive old wooden ship that a band of flamboyant, beer-loving pirates invaded, and then decorated.

The stairway down to the left leads to the basement level where the restrooms (more on them later), TVs and an entertainment stage are the focus. To the left of the bar, a wide stairway leads to a quite foyer nook halfway up the stairs. The top level provides you a more spacious seating area. Extensive (and expensive) wood and brass-trimmed brewery-related piping and plating run throughout. Even the hanging light fixtures are brass-trimmed. A very cool brass clock hangs over the upstairs balcony and can be viewed from most any place in the top floors. The wall nooks and windows are lined with Porterhouse beer bottles and knick knacks. It must be a bitch to keep clean!

It’s a bit cluttered. I’m trying to spy the tap handles, but all the little doodads and bric-a-brac catch my eyes, forcing me once again to concentrate on the task at hand…deciding which beer to try next.

The seating choices are varied enough to suite any individual or group needs. Hang out near the bar on simple wooden stools, or relax upon cushioned leather armchairs and/or coach-style benches, or just stand around gawking, beer in hand. Choice is yours. Enjoy your surroundings early in the day, before the after work crowd arrives…unless you enjoy mob scenes. In that case, arrive at 7pm (1900) on a Friday night.

The on tap selections are brewed mostly by Porterhouse and poured under pressure. There are always a couple of “Real” ales and guest beers (Erdinger on this day) available. I can highly recommend the Plain Porter and the Turner’s Sticklebract Bitter on cask. Lovely stuff! There are plenty of bottled selections from the wonderful world of Beerdom plus a solid selection of wines and mixed drinks for the folks not very interested this article.

The food menu is fairly extensive. A mix of pizza, burgers, fish & chips, standard Irish and gastro-pub food is available. The best option might be the fresh Rock Oysters. ½ dozen for 7 pounds is a very fair deal by London standards.

Now to the restrooms as promised; My wife felt a little uncomfortable going to the lady’s room because a group of guys were hanging out by the door. We’re sure they meant no harm, but creating a little separation between the restrooms and the lounge area would be smart.

All-in-all, an interesting pub with a bounty of very good beers to try.

Place Porterhouse on your ‘Should’ visit London Pub list.

Cheers!

Quote: “For every wound, a balm. For every sorrow, cheer. For every storm, a calm.

For every thirst, a beer” – Unknown Irish Author

Maine Brewing Company - Lunch

American IPA 12 oz. dark brown bottle. Bottled date 10-25-11
Served in a SA perfect pint glass
It pours a hazy goldish copper color with a full 2" beige head on top along with loads of sticky and patchy lacing.
A smell of pink grapefruit rises at once, followed by smells of bready malt, lemon zest, mixed fruit and whiff of gin in the vapors.
The flavors are juicy and citrusy up front. Slightly sweetened grapefruit, zesty limes, resinous hops roll around in a pool of creamy caramel malt. Minor tastes of pine, pepper and herbal mint peek in the finish. A little alcoholic fuminess is felt more than tasted. You're aware of its presence, but not confronted by it.
This is, at the moment my very favorite IPA! Incredible IPA!

Mayflower Brewing release party

Mayflower will release its Thanksgiving Ale (on CASK!!!) this Sat. @ British Beer Company in Pembroke, MA. Nov 14, 2011 - 4 - 7pm.
Members of the Brewery will be on hand, pint giveaways, awesome beer themed food specials and more! In addition we will be tapping a cask that is a collaboration of the skilled brewers of Mayflower and the Management staff of the BBC.
We brewed this delicious IPA together and its Awesome!
Giant Turkey Legs will be available to munch!

Beer style of the week; English Strong Ale

Week 38

Brrrrr! Fall’s racing to winter and now’s the time to rummage around in the cellar for some robust, body-warming beers. If we can resist reaching for the really big ABV guns like Barley Wines for now, the English Strong Ales are the perfect “tweener” beer to bridge the seasons and mildly thaw our chilled extremities.

Any English Strong Ale worthy of the adjective, “strong” should be in the 6.2% – 8% ABV range. Any lower and it doesn’t really provide the warming effect, any stronger it becomes a Barley Wine or strong “Old Ale” (both are on the waiting list for style of week).

Dark copper to deep amber in color, malty backbone, dark fruit esters, and varying degrees of hoppiness and alcoholic profiles are the norm. As with most beer styles there are some conflicting variables, and nowadays that is the new norm.

From the land of origin

Fuller’s 1845 – Fuller Smith and Turner PLC – London, England – 6.3%

Sturdy brown 16.9oz brown bottle. Best Before Date.

It pours a dark teak with an orange tint. The medium-sized head dissipates slowly and leaves behind some patchy and trailing lace.

The aroma is mostly a big sweet malty one. Some woody notes peek through, as does a light smell of chocolate. A hint of rummy alcohol and vanilla extract is noticed.

The malt has a taste reminiscent of French toast. Toffee and chocolate flavors are quite pronounced. A woody taste is constantly in the background.

The sharp citrus bitterness is slightly tempered by a pear-like fruitiness.

This brew has a unique dual mouthfeel. It is at once sharp-edged with a restrained rawness to it. At the same time, there is a civilized balance and rounded sweet smoothness.

This is one of those rare brews that taste more alcoholic than it actually is. I would have guessed 8%ABV.

Young’s Special London Ale – Wells & Young’s – Bedford, England – 6.4% ABV

16.9oz brown bottle. Best before date stamped on bottle.

Listed as a Strong Bitter, it stills fits the English Strong style very well.

It pours a deep amber color with a medium-sized off-white head and some trails and sticky lace.

The aroma is a harmonious blend of lightly roasted malt and citrus hops, with a faint smell of tea in the background.

The full malt body has flavors of fresh bread dough and sweet caramel.

A delightful taste of fresh flowery hops.

This is a rich and complex brew, though all of the flavors are reserved and subdued. Well balanced! Very tasty and the flavor lasts!

Innis and Gunn Highland Cask – Edinburgh, Scotland – 7.1% ABV

11.2 oz. clear glass bottle (wrong!) Served in a standard pint glass.

Poured a coppery amber color with a fast-fading off-white head.
Smells off cut dried wood, caramel, dry malt, resinous hop followed by peaty scotch.

Flavors of caramel malt, wheat crackers, resinous and metallic hops mix. The cask whiskey taste pulls through in the finish.

The body, quite dry at first, mellows and becomes smooth and velvety as it warms.

This HAS to be marked down because of the clear glass bottles. The brewers must not respect their own beer.

New England

Geary’s Hampshire Special – DL Geary’s – Portland, Maine – 7% ABV

This was a winter seasonal - Must Try! Now available year-round.

Deep golden bronze/amber with a tint of red. Very complex dry robust malt with a trace of sweetness. Powerfully hopped, then dry hopped for good measure. The maltiness rolls forward throughout the glass and begins to reveals a trace of berries and some smoothness. An unusual, but nice pine essence is long lasting. The alcohol is noticed, though not overly so. The creamy beige head lingers and nice lace is formed. As with all of D.L. Geary’s brews, there’s sort of a raw wildness, like Maine itself. It’s easy to picture a Norman Rockwell Maine coast pub scene in winter where the cheerful patrons are toasting one another with a frosty mug of Hampshire Special. Now that really warms the heart! BTW – Hampshire Special pairs really well with hearty stews. Try braising a roast with this ale in place of Burgundy wine.

Pretty Things November 15^th, 1901 KK – Pretty Things Ale & Beer Project – Westport Mass. 7.8% ABV

22oz dark brown bottle. No Freshness date, although the legend on the label suggests cellaring.

Served in a nonic pint glass. From a recipe brewed on 11/15/1901

It pours a very deep dark smoky cola color with a firm and rocky tannish head and loads of lacing.

The smell is a little here and there. Burnt rye toast, grapefruit zest, coffee and bread dough is followed by a slightly astringent camphor and witch-hazel fuminess.

I like the overall flavor mix, although it reminds me of several homebrews I have sampled over the years. The citrusy and metallic hops are surprisingly up front. A resinous hop taste is always present, yet mild. Burnt sugar and rye crackers tastes follow and some warming alcohol is in the finish.

The mouthfeel is a tad raspy though not enough to keep me from taking some large gulps now and then.

Interesting brew!

Cheers!

Next week; Old Ale (Stronger Old Ale)

Quote: “We old folks have to find our pillows and cushions in our tankards. Strong beer is the milk of the old” – Martin Luther, 1483 - 1546k of the old."
-Martin Luther

This Old New England Beer Examiner examines the new Old London Pubs III

This is a series of my impressions of the very highest rated London Pubs according to CAMRA, Cask Marque, Time Out London and ViewLondon.com (along with some other very pleasant surprises along the way)

See part one for the criteria for a New Old Pub; http://www.examiner.com/beer-in-boston/this-old-new-england-beer-examiner-examines-the-new-old-london-pubs

My wife, Kathy and I set out from Boston with the plan to meet with eleven friends from five different countries, nine whom we’ve never actually met in person (just Face Book) to attend a play at The Hampstead Theater. The job of finding a place where we could all meet beforehand fell on me (I wouldn’t have it any other way) It turns out several worthy pubs were within walking distance of the theater, but only one kept jumping out at me as the best option for such a large, diverse group, where we could have a an attractive, authentic pub space to stretch out in and chat comfortably before the play. Oh, and I might mention The Washington was listed on CAMRA and Cask Marque as having cask-conditioned beer as well as several varieties of beer and cider tap selections. Like a crow to glass beads, I’m attracted to real pubs.

The Washington, www.thewashingtonhampstead.co.uk is a straight walk down Eton Ave off the Swiss Cottage Tube station exit. The Hampshire Theater will be to your right. Past the theater about four blocks down, you will see The Washington come into view at a busy 4 way crossing.

Stop for a moment to admire the subtly-Victorian building. The light pastel cream and green-trimmed exterior doesn’t catch the eye as much as it soothes the eye. Hanging flowers adorn the entry. A framed portrait of Washington (not George) keeps watch over the intersection below.

Step inside. Glance around to see if you might recognize any of your old and/or Face Book friends. But Oooo, spy the lovely pump handles atop the sturdy u-shaped oaken bar. Tap handles to either side are

spaced so that you can read them without straining your neck. Take in the cool chandeliers and the fancy etched mirrors and cozy, comfy seating arrangements. Check out the fancy logo tile work. Now THIS is a PUB!

Our friends hadn’t yet arrived, so it was a fine time to peruse the cask handles. I asked the young man behind the bar about a few of the selections. He admitted that he was in his first night on the job and would get someone more experienced to assist me. Rather than bullshitting, he was trained to defer to someone who actually knew the beer. This was a good sign.

A lovely woman bartender answered my questions and gave proper advice on which beers to try first. Examining my perfect pint, Landlord, Kate Tidey came over and introduced herself. This pub is run by Kate and her husband Terry Tidey, the great, great, great grandson of the original 1865 owner. The pride and care for the place and its history is evident throughout.

Our group finally arrived and we spent the next hour catching up and sampling the lovely beers in a roomy corner nook large enough for 12.

The Washington has a downstairs bar where music, quizzes and comedy nights take place, but it’s the upstairs bar that has captivated our group.

On the night we visited, Timothy Taylor Landlord, UBU Purity, Oakleaf IPA, Sharp’s Doombar and Itchen Valley Godfather’s were the delightful cask options. As mentioned, there’s also a fair selection of ciders plus an assortment of familiar Euro taps.

A mighty fine pub, The Washington!

Cheers!