Beer style of the week; Hop Happy Christmas Ales

Week 43

As promised back in week 41, we examine a style (well, not actually a style, but a kind of ale) that expresses a brewer’s interpretations of a spicy/hoppy beer for the Christmas Season. Week 41 focused upon English-style Winter Warmers. Week 42 was all about German-style Christmas Lagers. This week we crank up the IBU’s (International Bittering Units) to look at ales with their roots firmly from the Pacific Northwest that explode into, rather than ease into the holidays.

Malt is to Winter Warmers and German Christmas Lagers, what hops are to Christmas Ales. These ales are definitely hop forward with firm, yet never heavy malt support. The hops can be citrusy, resinous and/or tea-like, but they should all include some spruce or piney bitterness qualities to get us thinking about Christmas trees. These hop happy ales can be in the spicy Brown or Red Ale, Old Ale, IPA to Imperial IPA bitterness ranges. They are deep copper to garnet-hued mahogany in color and wide-ranging ABV levels from 6.2% - 11%. They may also be disguised as Barleywines.

It’s fairly common to detect berries and spices in a Christmas Ale, because some brewers add both merry berries and holiday spices into the vat. And speaking of berries and spice…

From the land of origin

Our Special Ale (2005) - Anchor Brewing – San Francisco, California – 5.8% ABV

Reviewed in 2008. I have a sneaking suspicion that this Christmas Ale may be on the verge of ending its wonderful drinkable life. Maybe another year, perhaps two. That is a moot point, however, because I don't have another one with which to judge, besides Anchor tweaks their Christmas Ale recipe each year.
It pours a nearly impenetrable ruby tinged black. There is virtually no head or lace, except for a thin beige rim. A piney aroma is backed by the smell of cherries, sweet malt, vanilla and warming alcohol. The aroma is supported by a lightly musty and woody smell. The body is fairly thick and oily. Flavors of cherry cough drops, toffee, light lemon citrus and faint taste of sweet chocolate flow into the far reaches of the taste buds. An oaky flavor seems to carry a light taste of vanilla and sherry. And ever so slightly, a taste of tart apples begins to emerge. I would like to try this again next year, and the next….

Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale – Chico, California – 6.8% ABV – Served in a nonic tumbler.

This deep copper/amber IPA with a solid beige head is a joy to behold. The lace is webby and clumpy in spots.

The aroma is outstanding! Fresh floral and citrusy hops dominate. The faint smell of spruce, sweet malt, fruit and alcohol are present.

While this is an amply malted brew, with some caramel and herbal qualities, the focus here is on the hops. Sharp-edged grapefruit bitterness and piney esters are in abundance. A light fruity background and a bit of metallic tang, along with some noticeable warming alcohol, make for a very flavorful ale, without resorting to an overwhelming quantity of alcohol. Celebration Ale will be one of the Christmas Eve offerings at my home this year.

YuleSmith – AleSmith Brewing

Served in a Piraat Goblet.

Pours a deep dark amber color with an orange-hued beige head and lots of lacing.

Smells of sweet caramel malt, citrus and piney hops mingle and mix at first pour. A light whiff of berries slide in as does a fumy dark rum vapor.
The flavors are hop forward with tastes of pine, a bit of citrus and mild woody notes. A solid caramel malt presence carries a bit of a peppery spice kick. The malt edges through as it warms. The rummy alcohol remains fairly well hidden, but trust that it is there…
This is a creamy, highly hopped brew that goes down smooth and warm. A very nice Christmas fireside beer!

New England

Gritty McDuff’s Christmas Ale – Portland, Maine – 6.2% ABV

12 oz. brown bottle. Served in a SA Perfect Pint glass.
Pours a dark amber with a very fast-fading off-white head.
A smell of fruit cake leaps out at first pour. Smells of caramel malt, toffee, tea-like hops, plums and a whiff of rum follow.
A sweet fruity malt flavor carries tastes of citrus, tea, berries, edgy hops and white rum.
This is a very fluid, liquidy slip & sliding brew.
Highly drinkable, plus it’s a good value.

Holidale – Berkshire Brewing – South Deerfield, Massachusetts – 9.6% ABV

22oz dark brown bottle. No freshness date.

This Barleywine pours a lovely orange-hued hazy amber with a small, but slow fading beige head.

The first smell to rise is roasted malt soaked in Sangria. A light smell of citrus follows. I detected a whiff of alcohol, but it went into seclusion quickly and never did return.

Sweet caramel malt and vanilla cookie dough flavors are front and center. A faint taste of prune juice is noticed.

Lemony citrus bitterness and a bit of orange zest counter the malty sweetness nicely. A light herbal, spruce taste and peppery spiciness provide a pleasant finish. The white rum-like fruit punch flavor reminds me of the holidays.

If we enjoy these beers in the spirit for which they were intended, rather than take into question the brewer’s style-naming motives, we can all appreciate the fuzzy and warm feeling inside that these beers provide. Try strong aged cheeses, salamis with spicy mustards, hearty meat stews, or rich sweet desserts.

Next week; Biere de Noel

Cheers!

Quote: ““Then to the spicy nut-brown ale.” – John Milton (1608-1674)

Beer style of the week; German-style Christmas Biers

Week 42

The jolly Germans are a Christmas-respecting people. On Christmas Days past, they have taken time out from intense fighting during WWI and WWII to exchange gifts, food and drink with the enemy of the day only to resume battle on December 26^th.

As the song, ‘O Tannenbaum’ rings out through the Rhineland, you are likely find mugs of dark beer (bier) swaying in rhythm and hoisted towards the glimmering star atop the Yule Tree. And this isn’t just any run-of-the-mill Euro-Lager. Nein, nein, nein!!! This is deep, rich, soul-warming German-style Christmas Bier! Bocks, Double Bocks und uber rich lagers…

Land of origin

Mahr’s Christmas Bock – Mahrs Brau – Bamberg, Germany – 6% ABV

This was my first Christmas Bock. What was it to be compared to?

It pours a deep amber with a thin off-white head and some trails of lace. An initial malty aroma fades rather quickly. A Euro-hop smell picks up where the malt fades. A distant, yet constant earthy smell remains throughout. At first swallow, the malt body seems a little thin for the winter-type style, but as it warms, more malty characteristics are revealed. A little sweet caramel and lots fresh baked bread favors begin to assert themselves. The hops possess a metallic bite and just a hint of limey bitterness. This brew sweetens and displays a lightly herbal character late in the glass. All in all a pretty good winter brew.

It can be compared to (distantly) Young's Winter Warmer.

Samichlaus (Santa Claus) – Brauerei Schoss Eggenberg – Vorchdorf, Austria – 14% ABV

The World’s Most Extraordinary Beer (says so on the label). Bottled 2002 – rated in 2004. This Rare Malt Liquor is dark maple in color with a fast fading beige head. The aroma is rummy and malty with a faint trace of hops sneaking through. The full sweet malt houses highly hopped citrus bitterness. Dark rum flavors mingle with strong honey and light lemony taste. Strongly Alcoholic at 14% abv. But, it slides easily and dangerously down.

One of my favorite ports or sherries.

New England

Samuel Adams Winter Lager – Boston Beer Company – Boston, Massachusetts – 5.5%

On draft. Served in a standard pint glass.

It pours a dark ruby-hued amber color with a solid 2" beige head and plenty of web and trailing lacing.

The first smell is sweet wet malt and nut bread. A light whiff of mixed fruit cup with a hint of nutmeg and peppery spice follows.

If there was a liquid bock honey granola bar, this would be the recipe, less a mild taste of white rum and raisins.

A bit of lime-like citrus taste pulls through in the aftertaste.

All in all, a solid Bock...not spectacular...but a solid brew.

Winter Works (Zoiglbier) – Hingham Beer Works – Hingham, MA – 5% ABV

On draft

Pours a rusty copper color with a thin, fast-fading off-white head and lots of lacing.

A smell of crushed rye crackers, toasted malt and resinous hops are distinct but equal until the sweetness of the malt inches forward and takes center stage. A wisp of a dark toast is in the background.

The flavors pretty much mirror the aromas, except you notice citrusier and tobacco notes.

This is a real easy drinker. How a Zoiglbier (originally a “community” beer) is perceived as a winter beer is unclear, but I’ll buy it anyway.

So in the spirit of the season, the charitable thing to do is to joyfully drink all Christmas or Holiday offerings without being overly critical of the naming of the beer style. If the brewer brews us style that makes us rejoice, let it be. Enjoy it and give thanks!

Prost and Cheers!

Quote:

German - Am juengsten Tage wirds geschaut,

was jeder hier fuer Bier gebraut!

English - On judgment day it will be clear,

what everyone had brewed as beer.

Harvest Dance - Wheatwine

From Boulevard Brewing Smoke Stack Series KC, Missouri - 9.1% ABV
25 oz dark brown bottle. Served in a Westleteren goblet.
It pours a hazy copper/golden color with an overly enthusiastic billowing off-white head and load of sticky lacing.
Smells of citrus, yeasty cloves, damp basement, wildflowers, cut grass, green wood, tobacco and resinous hops mingle about.
Tastes of orange and lemon zest float in flavors of wheat crackers and peppery spices. Flavors of cloves, toasted tobacco, caramel and perfumy gin vie for attention.
The mouthfeel is spritzy and fizzy. I expected this brew to mellow and balance out, but it stayed complex with flavors and aromas flying around wild and loose.
It reminds me of a cross between a strong Saison and citrusy Quad.
Very interesting!

Beer style of the week; Winter Warmers

Week 41

We’re not quite ready for the roaring fireplace and flannel Long Johns, but there is a nip in the air. Jack Frost visits most mornings and sleety rain nibbles at the extremities. Time for the Winter Warmers!

The Brits have relied upon sweet, malty brews to sooth the chill for centuries. Full-bodied and generally with subdued, yet balanced hops, the Winter Warmers are easy drinkers. No need for the heavy winter parka when your favorite sweater will do.

An odd reality about the style is that it’s not actually a “style” per say, but a kind of beer. Winter Warmers can come in the form of an Ale or a Lager. As mentioned earlier they are malty brews, with just enough hops to keep the sweetness in check. Good Warmers should range in ABV from around 5.2% - 7.7%. The color should be a deep, rich amber to a dark mahogany. Some brewers may add a little seasonal spices, but the spiciness should be subdued and never over-the-top.

So what’s the difference between a Winter Warmer and a Christmas Ale? I’d say without firm conviction, yet from vigilant observation, that the difference lies in the hoppiness and/or spiciness. Christmas Ales tend to lean towards the style range of full-bodied strong Pale Ales with some spruce-like and/or piney hop characteristics. Think Christmas Trees. There are also Biere Noel (Belgian Christmas Ales) to consider. These two styles will be profiled separately in weeks 44 and 45 respectively.

Land of Origin

Young’s Winter Warmer – Wells Young LTD – Bedford, England – 5% ABV

This tan/oxblood Winter brew is topped by a fast fading beige head with sliding lace. The aroma is of caramel malt, fresh hops and pears. Sweet barley malt is almost oily slick. Full bitter tea-like and lightly citrus hops and berries. So creamy smooth rich and molasses-like sweet. Complex and pleasing from beginning to end. This is a low ABV Winter Warmer and barely fits the style, but it IS very tasty!

Samuel Smith’s Winter Welcome Ale – Tadcaster, England – 6% ABV

Winter Welcome is one of England's best representations of the winter brew styles. Full bodied (almost syrupy). This ale is so velvetty smooth and well rounded, it’s difficult not to guzzle it down. Good thing for the large bottles! The tea-like hops with a hint of citrus bitterness are noticeable early in the glass, but sort of fades under the rich malt, but that's cool, this is a quality malt, cherry sweet, roasted especially for the holidays.

New England

Smuttynose Winter Ale – Smuttynose Brewing – Portsmouth, NH – 5.1% ABV

12 oz. brown bottle. Freshness date stamped and etched.
Served in a standard pint glass.
This brew is listed as a Dubbel, but I think it fits very nicely in the Winter Warmer family.
It pours an orange-hued amber color with a medium-sized off-white head and loads of sticking lace.
The immediate smell that comes to mind is fruit cake. A whiff of malted milk balls follows, then a little citrusy and mixed fruit after that.
A tastes are in line with the aromas if you allow for a fairly strong taste of buttery caramel.
Speaking of buttery, the mouthfeel is slick and velvety.
You can really down these beat feet fast!

I would welcome a semi-Imperial version of this brew. Maybe something in the 6-6.5% range. Just a thought...

Geary’s Winter Ale – DL Geary’s Brewing – Portland, Maine – 6% ABV

No freshness date. It pours a nice clear amber with a fast fading soft white head and minimal lacing. The aroma is an even mix of doughy malt and floral hops.

Sweet caramel and fresh bread comes through in the malt. A good herbal quality lasts throughout.

There are grapefruity, light tea-like and some lemony sour bitterness, tempered by a bit of sweetness.

A faint taste of tart green apples is noticed.

I think Geary's may want to rename a few of their styles. This should be a mild Winter IPA and Geary's Hampshire Special (though now a year-round brew) should be their Winter style...IMHO.

Must try

Jubilale – Deschutes Brewery – Bend, Oregon – 6.7% ABV

Full Sail Wassail – Full Sail Brewing - Hood River, Oregon – 7% ABV

Bring on the cold weather! And Cheers!

Quote: “He that drinketh strong beer and goes to bed right mellow, lives as he ought to live and dies a hearty fellow” - Anonymous

This old New England Beer Examiner examines the new Old London Pubs VI

Dirty Dicks – 202 Bishopsgate, EC2M-4NR – 020-7283-5888 - http://www.dirtydicks.co.uk/

This Wells/Young’s operated pub is located just opposite the Liverpool Tube exit on Bishopsgate, look slightly left across the street and you’ll see a portrait of old Dirty Dick hanging over a canopied, flowerbox–draped, dual brass lanterned entry to the pub by the same name.

On an ominous note; According to legend, as written in CAMRA’s London Pub Walks, the original pub was named after Nathaniel Bentley, whose bride-to-be died on the eve of their wedding. The poor grieving man locked the room he had prepared for the feast and let himself, his pub and his cats go to rot. Dickens was inspired to create the character of Miss Havisham, in “Great Expectations” based on this sad affair. Where the name, ‘Dirty Dick’ fits in is unclear to me.

An even more foreboding sign of things to come are felt (and smelled) as you approach the entry and find a designated smoking area under the overhang, because to enter the joint you must pass through an ominous cloud of choking smoke. And unfortunately, this smoke trails in behind you and stays in the air. Allowance of this smoking area is certainly a bad thing for anyone planning to experience the aroma and taste of the cask-conditioned ales. Very bad!

Once you’re at the end of the bar, and as far away from the nauseous fumes as possible, you will have the pleasure of taking in an authentic-looking pub with wide wooden floors and thick post and beam timber framed wood work. The long and straight brass plated bar has around 10 tap handles and 3 cask pumps.

A friendly mix of locals from all ethnicities and income brackets hang together and chat like long-lost friends. Near the entryway, a few electronic arcade machines emit frenzied banging, ringing, shooting and action noises associated with such games.

There are 3 levels. The top level balcony is more of a gallery of odd relics and memorabilia, including what appears to be the mummified remains of one of Mr. Bentley’s cats. The cellar is more of a traditional restaurant setting.

The Tribute and Bombardier Ales were in tip top shape. I wished the smoke would cease pouring in, but it never did let up and we were forced to pay up and escape.

This COULD be a MUST visit London Pub, and it is if you happen to be a smoker and/or are into video arcade games.

Beer Style of the Week – The One of a Kind Beer (The Bastards) Cranberry Beers

Week 40

They get you thinking about Thanksgiving, those tart little red bog berries. And big, hearty warming ales may get your Thanksgiving beer drinking mojo working... but, Cranberry Beer? Some ingredients, as far out as they may seem work very well in a brew vat…but Cranberry Beer? Producers of cranberry-based beverages have known for years, the best way to get people to drink cranberry juice is to alter the formula by adding sweeteners and/or mellow juices. So it’s logical to suppose the best way to get a beer-lover to ingest cranberries is to add some to their beer.

When you think about it, Cranberry Beer certainly fits the idea of brewing in New England much like Blueberry or Pumpkin beers, but I doubt Cranberry Beers will ever reach the popularity level of those other fruit and/or vegetable beers. None the less, we should encourage the two Boston brewers who provide us one more holiday beer style option by drinking some.

Which leads to this question; why don’t they just name this novel concoction, Cranbeery?

Harpoon Grateful Harvest Cranberry Ale – Harpoon Brewing – Windsor, Vermont – 5.9% ABV

12 brown bottle. Freshness date stamped on neck. Served in a SA Perfect pint glass.

Pours an orange-hued amber color with a fast-fading off-white, pink-tinted head.

The smell at first pour is of dried hops. A smell of cranberry sauce floats in carried on a bready malt foundation.

The flavors are a bit conflicting at first. Citrusy and resinous hop bitterness runs parallel to the tartness of the cranberry puree. Alas, the flavors begin the blend a bit as it warms. The mild malt backbone is revealed, yet never asserts itself. A bit of honey-like sweetness rolls forward and lies beneath. It's pretty good!

I expected to be disappointed, but am instead fairly pleased.

I enjoyed a gingersnap cookie with this beer!

Samuel Adams Cranberry Lambic – Boston Beer Company – 5.9% ABV

12 oz. bottle. Freshness date notched on label. Served in a SA perfect pint glass.
Note: I first sampled this beer about 8 years ago and was repulsed at just how overly-tart and acidic it was. It was instant indigestion. It took 3 Tums to quell the acid reflux.
Now, I cautiously try it once more. I do believe it has changed. Not my taste buds...the beer.
It pours a cloudy rust color with a pink-hued beige head, along with a fair amount of sticky lacing.
A smell of citrus and cranberries waft up at first pour. A smell of Wheaties is followed by a lightly pungent clovey yeasty aroma.
Tastes of cranberries (surprise!) and orange zest dominate early. The flavors evolve into citrus-dominated fruit cup with a taste of lightly sweetened Farina. An astringent acidic/sourness is noticed in the aftertaste, though not as bad as I remembered it.
The mouthfeel is a bit off-putting. There's a raspy, dryness to it which creates a desperate need for a water wash down.
As bad as that may sound, it's not really. In fact, it's pretty good in an unusual way.

Cranberry Beer is an oddball beer that you need to approach with an open mind. It will pair very nicely with your turkey dinner or the inevitable turkey sandwiches with all the fixins’ later in the evening.

Next week: The Big Beers cometh.

Cheers!

Quote: To his students on drinking beer…“Yes I said, try tastin’ it. Don’t look so damned surprised. It won’t poison you and you’ll learn to enjoy it for its own sake” – Ruthven Todd (1914-1978)