Beer style of the week; Baltic or Imperial Porters

Week 51

Imagine for a moment you’re a deck hand in the 1850’s sailing aboard a merchant vessel, plying the icy waters of the Baltic Sea and Gulf of Bothnia. With frozen masts, sails and icy decks to constantly tend to, you’re hauling precious cargo between Russia, Finland, Sweden, Estonia, Germany and Poland. It’s hard to imagine a more perilous or more miserably cold place to be. And when your shift for the day ends your reward MUST be more than hard tack crackers, salted pork fat and reindeer jerky! There’s got to be a sane reason why you’d put yourself through frozen hell without some form of end-of-the- day pleasure. The answer? Baltic Porter!

Here’s the brief history of the Porter style as outlined in week 12;

The dark Porter was a beer that was popular amongst the river and street porters of London in the early 1700s. The Porter style, as written in some publications was originally a blend of what was named the Three Threads. This was a blend of ale, old ale and a potent beer called Twopenny (the cost per quart). Sometimes Porter was referred to by the name “Entire Butt”, based upon it having all the three blends together in one beer. An aged, stronger Three Threads blend became known as Stout Porter, and in time, shortened to “stout”. In many circles of the day, the name porter and stout became interchangeable. At any rate a Porter should have, at least, a faint astringent tart or slight sourness bitterness known to the “Old Ale” style.

Baltic Porter is one of the most aptly-named beer styles on the planet. Named for the extra strong Porter that was brewed to survive long and arduous sea journeys in some of the harshest climates and conditions known to man. It was, and is to this day, survival beer. Hearty, nutritious and above all, full-flavored Porter. The alcohol by volume (ABV) should be between 7% - 9%.

From the lands of origin

Okocim Porter – Browar Okocim (Carlsberg) – Brzesko, Poland – 8.1% ABV

500 ml (16.9 oz.) brown bottle. No freshness date. Poured into a Sam Adams perfect pint glass.

Oddly, brewed in Southern Poland, nowhere near the Baltic Sea.

It pours a very deep and dark mahogany brown color with a fast-fading tannish head along with some webby lacing.

Dark rummy alcohol fuminess is released at first pour. Smoky roast malt, burnt rye toast and a light citrusy smell blend quite well together.

The flavors are straight forward with little in the way of subtleties. Dark roasted malt, dark coffee, metallic and resinous hops, rum and figs are fairly equal. Some burnt sugar sweetness is perhaps a bit too prominent.

The body is just about right for the style, though on the syrupy sweet side. It's smooth, liquid and nearly oily. This particular Okocim offering is always very consistent. I look forward to drinking it when in the mood, and it never lets me down.

Neuzeller Kloster-brau Porter – Klosterbrauerei – Neuzelle, Germany – 7.1% ABV

Brewed on the Polish border in Northern Germany.

16.9oz brown bottle. Freshness date stamped on bottle.

It pours a dark coffee color with tan bubbly, fast fading head.

An earthy smell of cut hay and powered malt is upfront and hint of cocoa is light in the background.

A strong taste of Hershey’s Chocolate syrup and milk dominates the mild hint of lime-like citrus.

A light brown sugar sweetness and coffee help to mask the fairly potent alcoholic heat.

Sinebrychoff Porter – Oy Sinebrychoff AB – Kerava, Finland – 7.2% ABV

Sinebrychoff, or Koff as it is called in Finland really stands out as a true "craft" brew. This "vintage" Baltic Porter ages very well, when cellaring at around 55°F. The flavors and aromas change ever-so-gradually. You can expect this brew to last 6 to 8 years. This Baltic Porter is a prime example of a beer crafted with care, attention to detail and love. The color is like strong, dark coffee. Lovely aromas of chocolate malt, smoke, coffee and dark rum vie for attention. The full and rich body envelopes flavors of coffee, rye, dark chocolate and a bit of licorice. An abundance of sharp-edged fresh hops, citrus bitterness and hint of spices provide a lively bite. It's slightly smoky with an essence of pine in the background. This powerfully flavored brew has a bit of an alcohol kick, yet it remains very drinkable. I highly recommend this wonderful example of the Baltic Porter style!

Kiipis! (Cheers!)

New England Baltic/Imperial Porters

Harpoon Baltic Porter – Harpoon Brewery – Boston, MA – 9.5% ABV

12oz bottle. No freshness date.

It pours a roofing tar black body with a thin wispy light tan head on top.

A big whiff of coffee liqueur fumes up at first pour. A smell of burnt rye bread, earth, chocolate, and horse barn are all quite noticeable. Very Nice!

Coffee, molasses and rye bread make up the main malt characteristics. Mild limey tartness along with a light metallic bitterness attempt to offset the large maltiness, to little avail. However, a big whopping tequila-like alcohol bite factors through.

This is a likeable big brew, though it is a bit over-the-top for the style.

Shipyard Imperial Porter (Pugley’s Signature Series) Shipyard Brewing – Portland, Maine – 7.1% ABV

16.9 oz. brown bottle. No freshness date.
Served in a SA perfect pint glass.
Pours a deep and darkest brown possible. It takes a hard pour to get the mocha head billowing to a 2" level. There is a fair amount of patchy and webby sliding lace.
Smells of chocolate malt, cocoa, coffee and fruit cake carry more minor smells of resinous and citrusy hops. A whiff of black licorice rolls in late.
The flavors follow the smells closely, but the taste of licorice is more noticeable, as is a hint of peppery spices. An ever-so-slightly sour Old Ale tang is detected with some effort.
The body lacks the fullness and depth of some Finnish, Polish and Swedish Baltic Porters, but it is a really enjoyable brew anyway.

Thomas Hooker Imperial Porter – Thomas Hooker Ales & Lager – Brookfield, CT – 7.8% ABV

12 Oz. brown bottle. No freshness date.

Served in a Nonic tumbler.

It pours a very dark oxblood-tinted brown color with a firm and foamy 2” head and some webby rings of lacing.

The aromas are malt forward with strong scents of dark roast coffee, scorched malt, dark cocoa, along with a faint whiff of horse stable (in a good way). Citrusy and tart fruit smells inch through and are followed closely by whiffs of dark rum. A distant smell of macerated berries is noticed.

Tastes of roasted malt, burnt sugar, coffee and cocoa are fairly potent. The tastes of tart fruit and citrus zest provide a mild, yet nice balance to the dark maltiness. A slightly sour tang (it’s a true Porter) develops as it warms. Sweetness emerges a wee bit too assertive, but well within the style range.

The body is not as dense or oily as it appears. After the initial spritzy effervescence wears down, it becomes an easy drinker, which makes me glad I bought four.

Next week (Week 52) – Beer style of the week All-Stars

Quote: “Here’s to the man who drinks strong ale,
and goes to bed quite mellow.
Lives as he ought to live,
and dies a jolly good fellow.” - Old English folk song

Beer style of the week; American Barleywines

Week 50

Last week, in the midst of a raging blizzard, it was the perfect time for English Barleywines. In keeping with the theme of warming beers to take on the nasty effects of winter, we bring you American Barleywines. As you might imagine, the American take on the style is brasher, bolder, spicier, hoppier and of course, less refined. That said, there are many English-style Barleywines brewed in the US (and elsewhere) and American-style Barleywines that fit into, or cross over both style ranges. For this article (and last week’s), for the most part, I will try to simply take the brewers at their word, or go with what the style is listed as in BeerAdvocate.com and/or RateBeer.com.

As written last week; Barleywine is a misleading name. It’s not in any way, shape or form in the wine family. It does, however, possess wine-like strength; from between 9% and 13% ABV. Sometimes you will find a Barleywine aged in Sherry or Port barrels (these are generally worth seeking out!).Deep colored, full bodied, with varying degrees of fruitiness in the aroma and taste, citrus and/or resinous hop bitterness with noticeable sweetness are common to the style. A potent alcoholic kick is a certainty. There are some beers listed as Barleywine that weigh in at fewer than 9% ABV, but they are probably more suited to the Old Ale or Strong English Ale family. Barleywines should be very strong ales!

Wonderfully warming American Barleywines

West Coast

Bigfoot Barleywine-style Ale - Sierra Nevada Brewing – Chico, California – 9.6% ABV

2004 bottle, reviewed in 2005

It pours a lovely sun burnt orange amber with a smallish but fairly long-lasting beige head.

Potent floral hop aromas burst out of the glass while pouring. A smell of spruce, malt and alcohol blend in.

Caramel and candy sugar sweetness are easily noticed. Doughy bread, rum-soaked raisins and a light taste of herbs begin to emerge, though settled in the background.

Sharp grapefruit, lemon zest and a bit of a metallic bite provide quite a bite. The piney esters of whole fresh hops and the big alcohol kick remain quite separate from the other tastes, which begin to mingle halfway through the glass. Bigfoot is an original Northwest American-style Barleywine. I hope that just because something else more extreme flavor-wise, or more potent in the ABV department comes along, doesn't relegate this wonderful brew to the back shelf. Long live the legend of Bigfoot!

Mid Coast (It’s near Lake Michigan)

Third Coast Old Ale – Bell’s Brewery – Kalamazoo, Michigan – 10.2% ABV

12oz brown bottle. No freshness date.

It pours a unique dark and cloudy pine pitch amber. A fast fading beige head leave behind trails of spotty and patchy lace.

A fresh-cut piney smell fades into an authentic Old Ale sweet malty aroma of perfumy hop and alcohol.

This brew almost begs you to cellar it. And now that it's open, I know why...damn!

Sweet toffee and bready malt flavors blend with candy sugar, a light taste of prunes and dark sipping rum.

Potent and edgy whole hop taste reveals a sharp white grapefruit bitterness. A hint of black pepper and faint salty taste act as the perfect compliment. Throughout this rating process, I've adjusted my numerical values several times. It's a beer that deserves a long time to age. And if you're unwilling to age it, at least take the time to review it slowly.

East Coast

Flying Mouflan – Troegs Brewing Co. – Hershey, Pennsylvania – 9.3% ABV

22 oz. brown bottle. No freshness date.

The color is deep, dark amber/mahogany. A very fast-fading caramel head becomes a thin ring.

A big whiff of rum-soaked plums hits with a bang. Caramel malt, citrusy and floral hop smells are present throughout. A light smell of milk chocolate is noticed.

Flavors of a mixed fruit bowl drenched in dark rum and port wine come to mind. Prunes, raisins, pears, tangerine and pineapple, with a hint of banana. Does this count for my daily fruit intake? The citrusy hops poke through, as does a nice rich malty taste. Sweet caramel adds the right balance to the bold flavors.

As the label suggests, I will cellar one and see how things transform in a year. If I can wait that long.

2011 Blunderbuss Barleywine – Aged in Port & Sherry Barrels – Cambridge Brewing Co. Cambridge, Massachusetts – 13% ABV - Served in a snifter.

It pours a hazy tannish golden color with a thin beige head that was fading as the waitress carried it from the tap to the table.

Smells of ripe fruit and sherry rise to greet the nose at once. Mixed aromas of vanilla, fruit cake, figs, burnt caramel, along with whiffs of amber rum drift in and out. I'm almost afraid if I drink it too fast, I'll lose the wonderful and complex smells.

The flavors are as inviting and complex as the aromas. The rich and creamy body carries flavors of rum cake, crème Brule, figs, sweet berries, mild citrus, soft herbs, and sherry.

If you’re in need of a self-indulgent, decadent Barleywine to pleasure your mind, body and soul, this is the one!

Amazing!

Next week; Baltic and/or Imperial Porters

Cheers!

Quote: "Brewers enjoy working to make beer as much as drinking beer instead of working."
-Harold Rudolph

Beer style of the week; English Barleywines

Week 49

Well, winter is finally upon us in New England. I know I’ve been blathering on for the past month about special warming beers brewed to ward off winter’s nasty effects and we’ve had plenty of near winter conditions, but some lousy weather front, or stupid global warming effect prevents my bold decent into the basement for the really BIG liquid warmers. The time has come! And I couldn’t be happier! It’s Barleywine time! YES!!!!

To be honest, I didn’t know where the snow shovel was hiding, but I knew exactly where to find the Barleywine. Some of us have our priorities in order!

Barleywine is a misleading name. It’s not in any way, shape or form in the wine family. It does, however, possess wine-like strength; from between 8.5% and 13% ABV. English Barleywine is a deep colored, full bodied ale, with varying degrees of fruitiness in the aroma and taste. Citrus and/or resinous hop bitterness with noticeable caramel sweetness is common to the style. A potent alcoholic kick is a certainty. There are some beers listed as Barleywine that weigh in at fewer than 8.5% ABV, but they are probably better suited to the Old Ale or Strong English Ale family. Barleywines should be very strong ales! American Barleywines are generally more hop-forward ales, while the English style tends to be more rounded, earthy and balanced. A taste of “toffee” is more prominent in the English style, but not uncommon in the American versions. Both styles age very well in a cool, dark place. Serve cool, not chilled.

From the land of origin

J.W. Lees Vintage Harvest Ale – Manchester, England – 11.5% ABV

2000 Limited Edition. Sampled in 2004

Poured into a slim bodied Lindeman's Lambic glass to create a head.

It pours an orange-tinged deep amber with a substantial beige head and solid strips of horizontal lace. A big upfront vintage port aroma along with fresh bread dough, hops, sweet malt, alcohol and mild woody notes comprise a complex array of sweet smells. A full and sweet caramel Maris Otter malt house an amazing variety of flavors. Rich toffee, butterscotch, prunes, coffee, candy sugar and honey. A mild lime-like bitterness and beautifully balanced warming alcohol add just the right amount of contrast to this exceptionally well-crafted brew. Add a touch of creamy sherry and you get the picture. Bring on the winter!

Strong Golden Barley Wine – Samuel Smith Old Brewery – Tadcaster, England – 10.2% ABV - Cute 180ml bottle. 2010

Found in the small beer/wine section of the small convenience store next to our hotel in County Hall, Westminster.

Served in a globe-shaped glass.

It pours an oily golden color with a thin white head along with small specks of lacing.

A fumy Triple Sec-like aroma blasts out of the glass at first pour. Sweet doughy malt smells follow close behind. Wonderful fruit and citrus notes play nicely off the maltiness. A light smell of peppery spice floats in late.

The flavors mirror the aromas very closely. Add a taste of toffee and a somewhat harsh vodka-like warming alcohol taste in the breath.

The mouthfeel is a little syrupy, but that was to be expected.

I wanted to grab another bottle the next night, but I guess I got the last one. I do count my blessings though for having stumbled upon a rare find.

New England

Leviathan Barleywine-Style Ale – Harpoon Brewing – Boston, MA – 10% ABV

12 oz. dark brown bottle. No freshness date. Served in a Piraat goblet.

Pours a ruby-hued amber with a 2” off-white creamy head and some patchy and spotty lacing.

A rummy and sweet malty smell vie for quick attention. Smells of citrusy and resinous hops flow forward, as does some peppery spice and prune juice.

Tastes of toffee and sweet malt are upfront. Flavors of orange zest, rum, tobacco and peppery spices come in right behind. A white rum heat is well masked within the spiciness and hop bitterness, but can be tasted in the breath ½ way through.

This is a bit on the thin side for a Barley malt, but not in a negative way. It’s just not as slick and only as many within the style range.

Shipyard Barley Wine Style – Shipyard Brewing – Portland, Maine – 8.5% ABV

Served in a short Corsendonk goblet.

Pours a dark woody mahogany color with a creamy inch and 1/2” fast-fading mocha head and some patchy lacing.

Smells of mashed figs and plums are upfront, with a whiff of sweet roasted malt. Light citrus notes slide in behind. A light whiff of Kahlua is noticed throughout.

The flavors, in Shipyard’s style are edgy and bright. Crisp flavors tart orange citrus, tobacco, peppery spice mingles with tastes of toffee, caramel malt, figs. A taste of amber rum rolls in late and hangs around.

This is a medium-bodied Barleywine with just a bit of oily slickness to the mouthfeel. It tastes a little stronger than the 8.5% ABV listed. Maybe it will keep folks (me) from pounding it down like a fool.

Our Finest Regards – Pretty Things Beer & Ale Project – Westport, MA – 13.5% ABV

22 0z. Dark brown bottle. Freshness date on cap label. 2010
Served in a short Corsendonk goblet.
It pours a mahogany/amber color with fast-fading mocha head and a fair amount a patchy and trailing lacing.
Big blasts of complex aromas rise at once. Mashed fig, banana bread, Tripel sec, citrusy and resinous hops, peppery spices and white rum, invite inhale after inhale.
The flavors are even bigger and bolder than the smells. Tastes range from rum-soaked figs and ripe banana, to toffee and buttery caramel, to Indian pudding, to resinous and peppery spice, and back to that rummy flavor. The tastes sometimes are similar and cross into a Quadrupel-like profile...not a complaint...just my perception.
The mouthfeel is wonderful smooth an silky, and not as oily as it appeared when pouring. I was going to cap it, but couldn't resist.
Whew!

Must try/Grand Examples

Weyerbacher Insanity

Arquabus – Cambridge Brewing Co.

Next Week; American Barleywines

Cheers!

Quote; “Beer makes you feel as you ought to feel without beer.” - Henry Lawson, Poet – (1867-1922)

Yard House – Legacy Place, Dedham, MA

My wife and I had just completed a chilled-to-the-bone 3.5 mile hike through the woods at a nearby Trustees of the Reservation Park in Sharon. We were cold, thirsty and hungry. Our plan was to reward ourselves for our healthy tramp through the woods with lunch (and Beer) at the Yard House. After winding our way through the maze-like parking lots, we entered Yard House and found a line formed from the reception booth and into the foyer. Everyone with buzzers in hand. 35 minute wait for table? There were a few seats at the bar, so we grabbed them (we prefer the bar anyway!)

It’s mid-afternoon on MLK Day and the place is packed. But, who are these people? And just what is Yard House?

At center stage, is a massive stainless oval bar (think NASCAR track) that anchors the entire restaurant. Lots of glass, stainless and modernistic motifs lend a sort of futuristic and/or industrial look. Flat screen TVs are mostly positioned where they are not in any particular line of sight. It’s a sprawling place yet there’s a logical flow and order to it. Restaurant-style seating surrounds the bar, creating somewhat narrow passageways. But it’s the array of tap handles that draws the attention. Indeed! 114 tap handles!

There are good selections of Belgians, Germans, English, US (East and West Coast, plus some familiar locals), along with a line of the usual suspects from the US mega-brewers (who must not be named), plus some of the easy-to-find Euro and Asian selections such as Henie, Stella, Peroni and Sapporo. What’s missing are a few rare, eye-popping, jaw-dropping selections that create that “nirvana” moment for the über beer geeks. But be assured, if you have a pulse you will find something to arouse the buds.

Baffled by all the beer choices? They offer a “Six Pack” of 5 oz. samplers. While it might be a nice idea to introduce folks to new beer styles, 5 oz. in narrow cylindrical glasses is too small an amount for the average beer enthusiast to fully capture the essences and nuances of a beer. It would be better to serve 4 - 8 oz. beers in wide mouth glasses. But, that’s just my opinion… A few seats down from us, a guy was rating his Belgian 6 pack sampler starting with the St. Bernardus Abt 12, followed by the Tripel Karmeliet. Good luck tasting the rest!

I ordered a Notch Session. It arrived in a standard pint glass with a proper 2” head. It was a bit too chilled, but not frosted. The Tripel Karmeliet arrived in a proper short-stemmed goblet, but it was too cold and the head was a bit stifled. I waited 5 minutes before enjoying. Bliss!

The food menu is interesting and varied enough with three full pages of tempting offerings. I ordered 3 different “Street Tacos” (Korean Short Rib, Chicken Tinga, and Korean Pork Belly). When the waitress brought our order, she explained that the chef had only enough pork belly for about ½ of their normal portion. She asked if I wanted to try a different taco option. I told her not to worry about it. The ½ portion was just fine. Long story, short…they took the entire order (which was delicious) off the check. Note to self; It pays NOT to complain! BTW - My wife ordered the vegetarian (with Gardein™) salad and was quite pleased with the quality and quantity of her choice.

So, what exactly is Yard House? A sports bar chain? Sort of…I guess you could gather there with friends to watch a game...enjoy some beer and appetizers.

Is it a beer bar? In a way…in a pretty big way, though a few of the über beer geeks might whine a bit.

Is it a gastro-pub? It could be interpreted as a very large one.

Is it a beer-focused family restaurant? Could be. There were families with children. They all seemed content.

The Yard House can appeal to a wide range of clientele without falling into any clique and that’s a pretty nifty feat!

On a side note; There’s a mega-Whole Foods in Legacy Place which happens to have a fairly solid beer section. Now you have an even better reason for getting in the car and visiting the Yard House.

Cheers!

Yard House – 200 Legacy Place – Dedham, MA 02026 – 781-326-4644

http://www.yardhouse.com/MA/dedham/